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Autopapyrus · BYD F3 (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/byd/f3/manual-transmission-removal-and-installation/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

BYD F3 (1st generation): Manual Transmission Removal and Installation

The BYD F3 with the 1.5 engine has a transverse layout. The 5-speed manual transmission is bolted to the engine and held by three powertrain mounts. The transmission is removed from underneath, along with disconnecting the driveshafts and the shift and select cables (or rods). Exact torque specs and the exact bolt layout for this model are not documented in public service materials, so below is the general procedure for front-wheel-drive cars of this type.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-7 hours Steps: 16 Tools: lift or pit, transmission jack (or a sturdy stand with a support under the transmission case), engine support or support stand, socket and wrench set 10-19 mm, extension, flex-head wrench, flat-blade screwdriver or pry bar for popping out the driveshafts, oil drain pan, torque wrench, wire or zip tie to secure the driveshafts

Part

  • 🔩 Consumables: manual transmission fluid (viscosity grade and specification per the manufacturer's recommendation, approximately 75W-90 GL-4, capacity about 2-2.5 L (2.1-2.6 qt); verify the exact amount when filling by using the fill hole level), driveshaft seals (pair), and, if worn, a clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing). No part numbers listed: exact OE and aftermarket numbers are not available in public sources

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Leave the shift lever in neutral.
  2. Remove the air filter housing with its duct and, if necessary, the battery and battery tray, since they block access to the top of the transmission. Unplug the reverse light switch connector and the speed sensor connector (if equipped), taking care not to lose anything.
  3. Disconnect the shift and select cables/rods from the levers on the transmission: remove the retaining clips or cotter pins and mark the position of the adjusting nuts. Remove the bracket that holds the cable housings.
  4. Disconnect the clutch actuation: if it is hydraulic, unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission and move it aside without disconnecting the hose. If you do disconnect it, the system will need to be bled afterward.
  5. Raise the car, remove the engine undercover, and drain the transmission fluid (the drain plug is at the bottom). Then reinstall the plug with a new gasket/washer.
  6. Remove the front wheels. Undo the ball joint nuts or sway bar link nuts and disconnect the lower control arms so the driveshafts can be moved out of the way. Pop the inner CV joints out of the transmission by prying with a pry bar. Do not pull the shaft by the outer CV joint. Hang the driveshafts with wire so they do not hang at an angle and the inner joint is not over-bent.
  7. Remove the starter (two bolts, some of which usually also secure the transmission housing). Do not disconnect the power wire until the negative battery cable has been removed.
  8. Remove the lower cover (dust shield) of the clutch housing if it is a separate piece, and any braces/struts that tie the transmission to the engine or body. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe or its bracket if they get in the way of removing the transmission.
  9. Support the engine with a stand or hang it from a support bar, placing a wooden block under the oil pan. Position the transmission jack under the transmission and secure it.
  10. Remove the transmission mount (side mount) and the bolts securing the mount to the body. Remove all bolts securing the transmission to the engine. Note where the bolts of different lengths go; it is best to lay them out in a pattern on a piece of cardboard.
  11. Carefully pull the transmission away from the engine, strictly along the axis of the input shaft, until the shaft clears the clutch disc hub, without letting the weight of the transmission hang on the shaft. Lower the transmission and remove it from under the car.
  12. Install in reverse order. Before installation, inspect the clutch, replace the release bearing and the driveshaft seals, and apply a thin layer of spline grease to the input shaft splines. Center the clutch disc with an alignment tool if you removed the pressure plate.
  13. Bring the transmission into position, aligning the dowel pins and splines, and tighten the bolts evenly. Do not force the transmission into place with the bolts (if it does not go in, check the spline alignment by rotating the shaft). Tighten the transmission, mount, and starter bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque (transmission housing bolts on similar cars are usually in the range of 40-80 N·m (30-59 lb-ft)).
  14. Install the driveshafts, using new retaining rings where fitted, and make sure the joints seat with a click. Reassemble the suspension arms and tighten the wheel bolts to spec.
  15. Reconnect the shift and select cables/rods, the clutch cylinder, the connectors, and the starter. Fill with fluid up to the lower edge of the fill hole.
  16. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Check the clutch pedal free play, engagement of all gears with the car stationary, and the absence of leaks and noises. Bleed the hydraulic clutch if it was opened. Take a test drive and check the fluid level again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job is heavy and dangerous: the transmission weighs several tens of kilograms, and it must not be removed without a transmission jack and an engine support. Do not work under a car supported only by a jack. Mount and driveshaft tightness affects safety, so if you lack experience, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop. If you are removing the transmission because of noise, first make sure the cause is the transmission itself and not the clutch or a wheel bearing.