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Autopapyrus · Citroën C5 2.2 HDi DW12 (2001)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/citroen/c5/fuel-tank-removal-and-installation/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Citroën C5 2.2 HDi DW12 (2001): Fuel Tank Removal and Installation

Removing the fuel tank on a first-generation Citroën C5 with the 2.2 HDi diesel engine is done when the tank is damaged, when the fuel pump needs to be replaced with the tank removed, for cleaning out contamination, or when the fuel pump module opening is deformed. The procedure requires partial removal of the exhaust system, removing the filler neck through the fender, and disconnecting the fuel lines.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-4 hours Steps: 12 Tools: 10-19 mm wrench set, sockets and ratchet, pry bar, jack and jack stands, fuel drain container (at least 10 L (2.6 gal)), gloves, rags, WD-40 or similar penetrating oil.

Part

  • 🔩 Fuel pump module seal (must be replaced on reassembly), filler neck and vent hose clamps, M10 bolt for the filler pipe mount. If the tank is damaged, a new tank (70 L (18.5 gal) capacity for the first-generation C5)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Preparation — drain the fuel to a minimum (drive until the low fuel light comes on, or pump it out through the filler neck). Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and secure it on sturdy jack stands. Remove the rear right wheel.
  2. Disconnecting the fuel pump module — fold up the rear seat, and on the right side under the carpet find the plastic access hatch for the fuel pump. Remove the hatch cover, disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump module, and disconnect the two fuel fittings (supply and return; press the locking tabs and pull).
  3. Removing the filler neck — from the fender side, press in the four plastic tabs (two on top, two on the bottom) and pull the filler door with its housing out of the body. From below, behind the wheel arch liner, remove the M10 bolt that secures the filler pipe to the tank, and loosen the clamp on the rubber filler neck hose. Disconnect the vent hose (small diameter, secured with a clamp).
  4. Removing the rear fender liner — remove the self-tapping screws and the two nuts securing the plastic wheel arch liner on the right side, then remove the liner to access the filler neck mount.
  5. Disconnecting the exhaust pipe — find the joint between the catalytic converter and the middle section of the muffler (a flange with two bolts, or a clamp). Undo the fasteners and lower the exhaust to free up space above the tank. If necessary, remove the exhaust heat shield (2-4 M8 bolts).
  6. Removing the tank mounts — undo the bolts securing the tank's steel straps to the body. There are usually two straps, each held by two M10 or M12 bolts on each side. Tightening torque on reassembly is 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft) (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications). Undo the bolts securing the plastic underbody tank shield (if fitted).
  7. Lowering the tank — holding the tank by hand or with a helper, slowly lower it. Check that no hoses or wires are still connected. If the tank will not come down, check the filler pipe and the vent line. Remove the tank from under the car (an empty tank weighs about 10 kg (22 lb); with residual fuel, up to 20-25 kg (44-55 lb)).
  8. Inspection and cleaning — inspect the tank for cracks, dents and corrosion. Check the fuel pump module opening for deformation (an oval-shaped mounting opening is a typical problem on older C5s and causes fuel leaks even with a new seal). If necessary, rinse the inside of the tank with fuel or a dedicated tank cleaner.
  9. Installing the tank — perform the steps in reverse order. Fit a new seal on the fuel pump module. Raise the tank into position under the body and align the mounting holes. Tighten the strap bolts to 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern (one strap first, then the other). Reconnect the filler neck (new clamp, hand-tight without overtightening) and connect the vent hose. Secure the M10 bolt of the filler neck.
  10. Assembling the fuel pump module — insert the filler door housing into the body until all four tabs click into place. Connect the two fuel fittings to the fuel pump module (they must click into place) and connect the electrical connector. Screw on the fuel pump module cover until the marks on the tank body and on the ring line up (important: the marks show the end position of tightening, so you need to start with a 180-degree offset).
  11. Reassembling the exhaust and fender liner — connect the middle muffler section to the catalytic converter (use a new gasket if needed) and tighten the flange bolts to 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft). Install the heat shield, the wheel arch liner and the wheel.
  12. Checking — reconnect the battery, add fuel (at least 5-10 L (1.3-2.6 gal) for the test), and turn the ignition on for 5-10 seconds (without starting the engine) to prime the system. Inspect the area under the tank and the fuel pump hatch for leaks. Start the engine, let it idle for 2-3 minutes, and make sure there is no fuel smell or seepage.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Working on the fuel system is a fire hazard. Work in a well-ventilated area or outdoors, with no open flames, sparks or smoking. Wear gloves and safety glasses, because diesel fuel irritates the skin. If the fuel pump module opening is deformed (oval), replacing only the seal will not stop the leak, and the whole tank must be replaced. Do not try to straighten the plastic tank neck, because the plastic will crack. If you have no experience working on fuel systems, take the car to a repair shop.