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Autopapyrus · Citroën Xsara Picasso 6FZ (2003)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/citroen/xsara-picasso/cylinder-head-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Citroën Xsara Picasso 6FZ (2003): Cylinder Head Replacement

The 6FZ engine (EW7J4/EW10J4), a 1.8 L 16V, was fitted to the Xsara Picasso from 2000 to 2005. Cylinder head replacement is needed when the head gasket is blown, the head is cracked, the mating surface is warped, or the valve guides are worn. The job involves removing the accessories, timing belt, and intake and exhaust manifolds, then removing the head, checking its flatness, and installing it with the bolts tightened to the exact specification in a spiral sequence.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours Steps: 26 Tools: socket and wrench set, torque wrench with angle-tightening attachment, special camshaft locking tool, timing belt puller, lifting equipment (hoist or support bar), flatness checking tools (straightedge and feeler gauges), fuel pressure release tool, gasket surface cleaning kit

Part

  • 🔩 Complete cylinder head assembly (check the OE part number with a dealer using the VIN). Head gasket: OE numbers in the 0209 series (0209.A6, 0209.AX or equivalents from PAYEN, ELRING, AJUSA). Cylinder head bolts: a new bolt set Victor Reinz 14-32234-01 or OE PSA bolts is recommended (old bolts may be reused only if their length does not exceed 147 mm; nominal length is 144.5 mm). Valve cover gaskets, camshaft and crankshaft seals, coolant (5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt))
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

26 steps
  1. Preparation: disconnect the negative battery terminal, drain the coolant through the drain plug on the block and the radiator, and drain the engine oil. Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel system through the Schrader valve on the fuel rail using the special tool.
  2. Removing accessories: remove the air filter housing and intake hoses, disconnect the throttle cable, the sensor connectors (MAF, TPS, MAP, EGR valve), and the fuel supply and return hoses at the fuel rail. Unbolt the dipstick tube and pull it out of its seat in the block.
  3. Removing the intake manifold: remove the intake manifold bolts (tightening torque on reassembly 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)), then remove the manifold together with the throttle body and EGR valve. Set it aside without damaging the gasket (replace the gasket on assembly).
  4. Disconnecting the exhaust manifold: remove the 3 nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold flange (tightening torque on reassembly 25-30 N·m (18-22 lb-ft)). The exhaust manifold can be left on the head or removed separately after the head is off.
  5. Removing the accessory belt and crankshaft pulley: remove the serpentine belt, lock the crankshaft against rotation (insert a screwdriver into the flywheel ring gear teeth through the clutch housing inspection opening, or use a special locking tool), and remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt (tightening torque on reassembly 45 N·m (33 lb-ft) plus an additional 50-60 degrees). Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  6. Removing the covers and timing belt: remove the bolts of the upper and lower timing belt covers. Set piston No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke (the marks on the camshaft pulleys align with the marks on the rear cover, and the crankshaft pulley mark aligns with the mark on the block). Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley (tightening torque on reassembly 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)) and remove the timing belt. Lock the camshaft pulleys with the special locking pins (PSA tool or equivalent) so the camshafts do not turn when the head is removed.
  7. Installing an intermediate engine support: for safe head removal, install an additional support under the engine on the right side (the timing belt side), using a support bar or a jack with a wooden block under the oil pan. Unbolt the right engine mount and raise the engine 2-3 cm for better access.
  8. Removing the valve covers and ignition coils: remove the valve cover bolts (tightening torque on reassembly 10 N·m (7 lb-ft)) and remove the gaskets (replace them on assembly). Disconnect the ignition coil connectors, remove the coil module bolts, and take off the coil module.
  9. Removing auxiliary components from the head: disconnect the cooling system hoses from the thermostat housing and from the outlet pipe at the end of the head (loosen the clamps and drain the remaining coolant into a container). Remove the thermostat housing bolt (tightening torque on reassembly 45 N·m (33 lb-ft)) and move the housing aside. Remove the brake vacuum pump (if fitted) from the end of the head (3 bolts, tightening torque on reassembly 20 N·m (15 lb-ft)).
  10. Loosening the cylinder head bolts: use a special cylinder head bolt socket (a long socket with an internal hex or 12-point profile, depending on the bolt type). Loosen the bolts gradually in a spiral pattern from the outside toward the center (the reverse of the tightening sequence), a quarter turn per pass, so the head does not warp. There are 10 main head bolts in total. Remove all the bolts completely, take them out and inspect them (measure the length of each with a caliper; if even one bolt is longer than 147 mm, replace the whole set with new bolts).
  11. Removing the cylinder head: carefully lift the head straight up (do not let it tilt; use a lifting device or a helper). If the head does not come off the block (it is stuck), tap the ends of the head lightly with a rubber mallet (do not strike the gasket mating surface). Remove the head and place it on a clean surface with the gasket side down. Remove the remains of the head gasket from the block and the head.
  12. Cleaning and inspection: clean the mating surfaces of the block and head of gasket residue with a dedicated gasket and sealant remover (do not use metal scrapers or abrasive materials; use only plastic scrapers and chemicals). Wipe the surfaces with a clean lint-free cloth moistened with degreaser. Check the head flatness with a metal straightedge and feeler gauges lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally; the maximum allowable warpage is 0.05 mm over the entire length. If the warpage is greater, the head must be machined (resurfaced) on a machine (check the technical documentation for the maximum amount of metal that may be removed; it is usually up to 0.2-0.3 mm).
  13. Checking and preparing the head for installation: inspect the combustion chambers for cracks (especially between the valve seats and around the spark plug wells). Check the valve guides for wear (the allowable valve stem play in the guide is no more than 0.05-0.08 mm). If necessary, replace the valve stem seals, lap or replace the valves, and replace the valve guides and seats. Pressure-test the head for leaks (pressure testing in a water bath; leave this to a machine shop). Before installation, fill the hydraulic lifter bores with clean engine oil through the valve lifter openings (pour 10-15 ml into each bore to avoid tapping noise at first startup).
  14. Preparing the block for head installation: clean the block surface and check the condition of the camshaft bearing seats in the head (there should be no scoring). Wipe the head bolt threaded holes in the block with a clean cloth and blow them out with compressed air (the holes must be free of oil and coolant, which would distort the tightening torque). Inspect the cylinder walls; if there is noticeable wear or scoring, consider an engine block overhaul.
  15. Installing the new head gasket: take the new gasket out of its packaging (do not remove the protective coating until installation). Lay the gasket on the block, aligning the bolt holes and the locating dowels (usually 2 dowels at the corners of the block). The gasket must be installed with a specific side up (the marking TOP, OBEN, HAUT or an arrow must face the head). Do not apply any additional sealant to the gasket; modern gaskets already have all the necessary sealing elements.
  16. Installing the head on the block: using a lifting device or a helper, carefully lower the cylinder head onto the block, aligning all the holes (do not let it tilt or shift the gasket). Lower the head smoothly, without impacts.
  17. Preparing and lubricating the head bolts: if you are using new bolts, unpack the set. If you are reusing the old ones (each no longer than 147 mm), clean the threads and the underhead bearing surface. Apply a thin layer of gear oil or MOLYKOTE G RAPID PLUS special lubricant to the threads of each bolt and to the surface under the bolt head (this is critical for correct tightening torque and even distribution of clamping force).
  18. Tightening the head bolts (5 stages): tighten the bolts with a torque wrench strictly in a spiral pattern from the center outward (the pattern is usually shown on the new gasket or in the service documentation). Stage 1 (pre-tightening): tighten all 10 bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb-ft). Stage 2 (main): tighten all bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb-ft). Stage 3 (release): loosen all bolts a full 360-degree turn (this is critical, as it relieves internal stresses). Stage 4 (base): tighten all bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb-ft). Stage 5 (angle tightening): turn each bolt a further 285 degrees (use a torque wrench with a protractor or a special angle gauge). The final angle tightening stretches the bolts into their elastic range and ensures an even clamping force.
  19. Installing the thermostat and vacuum pump: install the thermostat housing with a new gasket or O-ring and tighten the bolt to 45 N·m (33 lb-ft). Install the brake vacuum pump (if it was removed) with a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb-ft). Replace the one-way valve (11) in the cooling system hose (the documentation lists it as a mandatory replacement whenever the head is removed).
  20. Installing the valve covers and ignition coils: install new valve cover gaskets (the old ones must always be replaced), set the covers in place, and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 10 N·m (7 lb-ft) (do not overtighten, as the plastic may crack). Install the ignition coil module, tighten the bolts, and connect the connectors.
  21. Installing the timing belt: make sure the camshafts are locked with the locking pins at TDC of cylinder No. 1 and the crankshaft is also at TDC (the pulley mark aligns with the mark on the block or front cover). Fit the new timing belt onto the pulleys (first the crankshaft, then the water pump, then the camshafts clockwise, and the tensioner pulley last). Install a new tensioner pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb-ft). Tension the belt according to the procedure (usually by turning the tensioner eccentric until the marks align or the specified belt deflection on the long run is reached). Remove the camshaft locking pins. Turn the crankshaft by hand 2 full revolutions and make sure all the marks line up and the belt has not jumped. Install the timing belt covers.
  22. Installing the crankshaft pulley: slide the pulley onto the crankshaft nose (align the keyway), tighten the center bolt to 45 N·m (33 lb-ft), then turn it a further 50-60 degrees (angle tightening). Install the serpentine belt.
  23. Installing the intake and exhaust manifolds: install the intake manifold with a new gasket and tighten the mounting bolts evenly from the center outward to 25 N·m (18 lb-ft). Connect all the hoses, the throttle cable, the sensor connectors, and the fuel hoses. Connect the downpipe to the exhaust manifold with a new gasket and tighten the nuts to 25-30 N·m (18-22 lb-ft).
  24. Assembling the cooling system and refilling: connect all the cooling system hoses and tighten the clamps. Install the dipstick tube. Fill with fresh coolant through the expansion tank up to the MAX level (5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt)). Open the bleed valve at the highest point of the cooling system (usually on the thermostat housing or on the heater core hose) to release air. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature (the thermostat will open), watching the coolant level and topping it up as air escapes. Shut the engine off, let it cool, and check the coolant level (it should be between MIN and MAX on a cold engine).
  25. Changing the engine oil and filter: fill with fresh engine oil (recommended viscosity 5W-40 or 10W-40, capacity about 4.5 L (4.8 qt) including the filter) and install a new oil filter. Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes (the oil pressure warning light should go out within 3-5 seconds), shut it off, wait 5 minutes, check the oil level with the dipstick, and top up to the MAX mark if necessary.
  26. Leak check and first start: inspect all the connections for oil and coolant leaks. Connect a diagnostic scan tool and clear any adaptation errors (if the engine was disassembled for a long time). Start the engine and listen for unusual noises (hydraulic lifter tapping in the first 10-30 seconds after the engine has sat for a long time is normal and should disappear). Check operation at idle and under load (smoothly raise the engine speed to 2500-3000 rpm several times). Make sure there are no misfires, the idle speed is stable (750-850 rpm), and there is no smoke from the exhaust.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Cylinder head replacement is a highly complex operation that requires strict adherence to the tightening torques and assembly sequence. Mistakes when tightening the head bolts (wrong torque, skipped stages, unlubricated threads) lead to another blown head gasket, a warped head, or broken bolts. Always use a working torque wrench with a current calibration. Do not start the engine without filling the cooling system and engine oil, as this will cause overheating and scoring in the cylinder and piston group. If the head was removed because of engine overheating, be sure to check its flatness and pressure-test it for leaks (hidden cracks may show up after installation). If you lack experience with cylinder head repair and the special tools (camshaft locking pins, bolt angle gauge, flatness checking tools), leave the job to a specialist repair shop.