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Autopapyrus · Ford Escape 1.5 EcoBoost (2021)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/escape/rear-main-seal-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Escape 1.5 EcoBoost (2021): Rear Main Seal Replacement

The rear main seal on the 1.5 EcoBoost is installed in an aluminum retainer bolted to the cylinder block with six bolts. It can only be reached after removing the transmission and the driveplate. The job is labor-intensive: Ford's labor guide allows about 11 hours for transmission removal and installation. The usual reason for replacement is an oil leak at the engine-to-transmission joint.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours Steps: 25 Tools: lift or inspection pit, socket set (8-19 mm), torque wrench, seal puller, seal installer (Ford EcoBoost special tool or a homemade sleeve of suitable diameter), drain pan for transmission fluid (4-5 L (4.2-5.3 qt)), transmission jack, jack stands

Part

  • 🔩 Rear main seal (complete with rear main seal retainer). For the 1.5 EcoBoost, the part number comes from the 1S7Z-6K301 series (confirm the exact number by VIN with a dealer, as revisions may exist). Alternative: DNJ RM4312 seal (listed for 1.5-1.6 EcoBoost 2011-2019, so check compatibility with a 2021 model). Retainer gasket or Ford Motorcraft High Performance RTV Silicone TA-357 (WSE-M4G323-A6)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

25 steps
  1. Put the vehicle on a lift, raise it and secure it on jack stands. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Drain the transmission fluid through the drain plug on the transmission pan. The volume is about 4 L (4.2 qt) (full fill is roughly 6-7 L (6.3-7.4 qt), but some fluid will remain in the torque converter).
  3. Remove the left front wheel well liner to reach the subframe fasteners and the drive axle. On the all-wheel-drive (AWD) version, remove the catalytic converter and the transfer case before removing the transmission.
  4. Disconnect the drive axles from the transmission: remove the ball joint bolts (or use a pry bar), pull the axles out of the hubs and hang them from the body with wire so the CV boots are not damaged.
  5. Disconnect the transmission electrical connectors (solenoids, speed sensor, selector position sensor), the shifter cables, and the transmission fluid cooler hoses (place a drain pan underneath).
  6. Position a transmission jack under the transmission case and secure it with straps. Lower the engine at the front with a jack (place a wooden block under the oil pan) to take the load off the mounts.
  7. Remove the bolts securing the engine and transmission mounts to the subframe. Remove the starter (2 mounting bolts, 1 power wire, 1 control connector).
  8. Remove the 4 bolts that secure the torque converter to the driveplate (access through the inspection window in the transmission housing; turn the crankshaft with the bolt on the accessory drive pulley). Marks are not needed, but remember the position.
  9. Remove all bolts that secure the transmission bell housing to the engine block (usually 6-8 around the perimeter). Check the upper bolts, which are often forgotten. Carefully pull the transmission straight back off the dowel bushings, lower it on the jack and roll it out from under the vehicle.
  10. Remove the driveplate: 6 mounting bolts, originally tightened to 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft). The bolts are single-use (TTY, torque-to-yield), so install new ones during assembly. Lock the driveplate with a holder or a large screwdriver against the ring gear teeth.
  11. You now see the rear main seal retainer: an aluminum cover held by 6 bolts. The tightening torque of these bolts is 10 N·m (89 lb-in). Loosen them in the reverse of the tightening sequence: 6-5-2-1-4-3 (from the edges toward the center).
  12. Remove the retainer from the block. Remove the old seal from the retainer (pry it out with a thin screwdriver or tap it out lightly through a drift). Do not scratch the seal seat in the retainer or the crankshaft sealing surface.
  13. Clean the retainer with solvent (acetone or brake cleaner) and check it for cracks. Clean the cylinder block flange and remove any remaining old sealant with a plastic scraper.
  14. Press the new seal into the retainer with a proper installer (a cylindrical sleeve with a diameter slightly smaller than the outer ring of the seal). The seal must sit flush with the front face of the retainer: the metal ring level with the edge, NOT recessed. Before pressing it in, lubricate the outer ring of the seal with engine oil.
  15. Lubricate the working (inner) lip of the seal with clean 5W-30 engine oil. Check the crankshaft journal for scoring. If there are deep scratches, the seal will leak (the journal will need to be ground or a repair sleeve installed).
  16. Apply a thin bead of Motorcraft TA-357 RTV sealant to the mating surface of the retainer (or to the block, either one, but not both surfaces at once). Let the sealant set for 5 minutes (as directed on the tube).
  17. Slide the retainer onto the crankshaft, align the bolt holes and thread in all 6 bolts by hand. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern in the sequence 3-4-1-2-5-6 to 10 N·m (89 lb-in) (use a low-range torque wrench or an adapter). Do not exceed the torque, or the aluminum threads in the block will strip.
  18. Install the driveplate on the crankshaft (align the locating dowel or marks, if present). Thread in the new bolts and tighten them in a crisscross pattern to 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft) (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications for your model year; the bolts are single-use and must not be reused).
  19. Bring the transmission up on the transmission jack and align it with the dowel bushings on the block. Make sure the torque converter is fully seated on the input shaft pilot (the distance from the bell housing face to the converter lug is about 10-12 mm; check it with a ruler before mating). If the torque converter has slid forward, the transmission will not seat.
  20. Start the bell housing bolts into the block and tighten them in a crisscross pattern to 45-55 N·m (33-41 lb-ft). Then tighten the 4 torque converter bolts to the driveplate to 35-40 N·m (26-30 lb-ft) (through the inspection window, turning the crankshaft).
  21. Install the starter (30-35 N·m (22-26 lb-ft)) and connect the wires. Secure the engine and transmission mounts to the subframe (70-90 N·m (52-66 lb-ft) for the mounts).
  22. Connect the drive axles to the transmission and hubs, tighten the hub nuts (250-280 N·m (184-207 lb-ft)), and install the ball joint bolts (60-70 N·m (44-52 lb-ft)). On AWD, install the transfer case and catalytic converter in reverse order.
  23. Reconnect the transmission electrical connectors, shifter cables and cooler hoses (use new clamps). Fill with Mercon LV or Mercon ULV transmission fluid (exact specification is on the dipstick or in the owner's manual) to the "cold" level.
  24. Install the left wheel well liner and lower the vehicle. Connect the battery, start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. Move the selector through all positions (P-R-N-D-S), then check the fluid level hot (engine running, selector in P, level between MIN and MAX on the dipstick).
  25. Inspect the seal area from below. There should be no oil seepage. Take a test drive of 10-15 km (6-9 miles) and inspect again the next day.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Replacing the rear main seal is a high-difficulty job that requires removing the transmission. If you lack experience and a lift, a professional repair shop is strongly recommended. Installation errors (a cocked seal, incorrect tightening torque, a damaged crankshaft journal, or an incompletely seated torque converter) will lead to a repeat leak or transmission damage. The driveplate and seal retainer bolts are single-use (TTY) and must not be reused.
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