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Autopapyrus · Ford Fusion (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/fusion/rear-axle-brake-line-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Fusion (1st generation): Rear Axle Brake Line Replacement

The rigid brake lines to the rear axle on the Fusion run along the underbody and corrode from road salt, most often where they are held by clips and near the connections to the flexible hoses. Replace a line if it is rusty, shows fluid residue, or simply leaks at the fittings. The main difficulties are seized fittings and careful bleeding of the system. The exact line layout depends on trim level (drums or discs, ABS or not), so use the old line as your reference and compare it with the new one before installation.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 hours (including bleeding) Steps: 11 Tools: Flare-nut (line) wrenches in 10, 11 and 12 mm (11 and 12 mm most often fit the fittings and mounts), open-end wrench set, penetrating oil, lift or pit and jack stands, plastic plugs or caps for the lines, flexible hose clamp, syringe or turkey baster for removing fluid from the reservoir, bleeder hose and container, fresh DOT 4 brake fluid, flaring tool kit and tubing bender if needed, wire brush, copper grease

Part

  • 🔩 Rear axle brake lines should be bought preformed, matched to your rear brake type (drum or disc) and your layout. This is the line from the connection at the front of the body to the rear flexible hoses, separate for left and right. Alternative: 4.75 mm copper-nickel tubing with ready-made fittings, which you flare and bend yourself to match the old line. DOT 4 brake fluid, about 0.5-1 L (0.5-1 qt)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface and secure it with wheel chocks. Raise the rear of the car and set it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Inspect the entire line from the connection with the front section to the flexible hoses at the rear brakes. Photograph or sketch the routing of the line, the positions of the clips and the fittings. If the lines are badly corroded, you will probably need to replace both sides.
  3. Generously apply penetrating oil to all fittings and clips and let it soak for 15-30 minutes. Apply it again before loosening; this greatly reduces the risk of rounding off the flats.
  4. Remove fluid from the master cylinder reservoir until the level is below the minimum mark; this reduces fluid loss. Keep the reservoir cap tightly closed so dirt does not get in.
  5. Loosen the fittings only with a flare-nut wrench, not a regular open-end wrench. Start with the flexible hose: hold the hose with a second wrench on its flat so you do not twist it. Immediately plug the open ends so fluid does not run out and dirt does not get in. A clamp can be used on flexible hoses.
  6. Disconnect the line from the front connection (at the ABS unit or the junction block, depending on trim level) and remove the clips and retainers along the body and the axle beam. The retainers are plastic and often break, so have new ones ready. Carefully pull the line out without bending the neighboring lines.
  7. Compare the new line with the old one for length, diameter, flare type and thread. As a rule, these Fords use metric fittings of about M10x1, but confirm this against the old line. If necessary, adjust the bends with a tubing bender, avoiding kinks and flattening.
  8. Install the line, starting with the threaded connection at the flexible hose. Thread the fittings in by hand until snug to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a flare-nut wrench to moderate torque: about 10-15 N·m (7-11 lb-ft) for M10 (use the exact value from the manufacturer's specification). Secure with new clips. The line must not touch the body, the axle beam, the exhaust or any moving parts.
  9. Top up with fresh DOT 4 fluid to the maximum mark and bleed the rear circuit. Bleed from the farthest wheel to the nearest, with a helper: press the pedal, open the bleeder, close it, release the pedal. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir and do not let it fall below the minimum. Bleed until the fluid comes out free of bubbles. If the pedal stays soft, repeat. On cars with ABS, if a lot of air has gotten into the unit, a special bleed procedure with a diagnostic scan tool may be required.
  10. Check all connections for leaks with the pedal pressed firmly (hold it for 30-60 seconds). Install the wheels and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque (for this car usually around 85-110 N·m (63-81 lb-ft); use the exact value from the specification).
  11. Before driving off, check the pedal travel and the parking brake operation while stationary, then make several low-speed stops in a safe area. Check the fittings for leaks again after a couple of days.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is critical to safety. If you have no experience with brake lines and flaring, have a repair shop do the replacement. An improperly formed flare, or an overtightened or undertightened fitting, can cause sudden pressure loss and circuit failure. Do not use plain copper tubing without nickel, and do not use tubing of random materials: only galvanized steel or copper-nickel lines rated for brake pressure are acceptable. Brake fluid damages paint and is harmful to skin: wear gloves and wash off splashes immediately.
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