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Autopapyrus · Ford Galaxy 2.0 TDCi 140 hp (2014)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/galaxy/cylinder-head-repair-valves-guides-valve-stem-seals/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Galaxy 2.0 TDCi 140 hp (2014): Cylinder Head Repair, Valves, Guides, Valve Stem Seals

The 2.0 TDCi 140 hp is a 16-valve DOHC engine with a timing belt, and the high-pressure fuel pump is also belt-driven. Cylinder head repair consists of removing the head, inspecting it at a machine shop (pressure test, flatness check, valve guide replacement, valve and seat lapping or replacement, resurfacing), and reassembling it with a new gasket and bolts. If you have not done this kind of work on diesels before, it is best to leave disassembly and assembly to a specialist shop. A mistake in timing or bolt tightening torque can quickly destroy the engine.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 days including machine shop work (cylinder head removal and installation about 8-12 hours, machine shop work on the head 1-2 days) Steps: 17 Tools: Socket and wrench set, torque wrench (low and high range), angle gauge for torque-angle tightening, engine-specific timing tool set (crankshaft, camshaft and high-pressure pump locking tools), injector puller, valve spring compressor, bore gauge and micrometer, straightedge and feeler gauges, dial indicator for measuring piston protrusion, cylinder head bolt socket (Torx or XZN), plastic caps and plugs for open ports, clean containers for sorting parts.

Part

  • 🔩 Engine gasket set (cylinder head gasket of the correct thickness, valve cover gasket, injector seals), new cylinder head bolts (single-use, torque-to-yield), timing belt kit with tensioner, idler pulleys and water pump, valve stem seal set, intake and exhaust valves (if worn), valve guides (oversize or standard), injector washers, engine oil and coolant. Determine exact part numbers from the engine code and VIN with your parts supplier
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 9 more. See manuals →

Step by step

17 steps
  1. Preparation. Park the car on level ground and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the coolant. Remove the engine undercover and the upper plastic engine cover. Take photos of the hose and connector routing, and label the parts.
  2. Removing the ancillaries. Remove the air filter housing with its ducts, the intercooler pipes and hoses. Disconnect the sensor connectors. Remove the intake manifold, the EGR valve and its pipes, the turbocharger and the exhaust manifold. The type and order of removal depend on the layout. If the exhaust manifold is not in the way, remove the cylinder head together with it.
  3. Fuel system. Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel rail and wait until it drops. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel lines and immediately cover all open fittings, injectors and the rail with caps. Any dirt in a Common Rail system ruins the injectors. Remove the injectors carefully, without tilting them. Seized injectors should be pulled out with a special puller, not hammered.
  4. Removing the timing belt. Remove the right engine mount (after supporting the engine from below with a wooden block), the belt covers and the drive idler pulley. Set the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder 1 and lock the crankshaft, camshafts and (if necessary) the high-pressure pump pulley with the proper locking tools. Release the tensioner and remove the belt. If the belt has ever been replaced with incorrect timing, check this before disassembly.
  5. Removing the valve cover and camshafts. Remove the valve cover and the oil separator. Check the marks on the pulleys and bearing caps. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts evenly, working in a spiral from the outside toward the center, then remove the camshafts and lay out the followers (or rocker arms with hydraulic lifters) strictly in order so each goes back in its original place.
  6. Removing the cylinder head. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence (from the outside toward the center, in a spiral), in 2-3 passes. Discard the bolts: they are single-use. Lift the head off carefully. Do not pry it with a screwdriver between the mating surfaces, so you do not damage them. If the head will not come off, check that no coolant hoses or sensors are still connected. Immediately cover the cylinders and ports with a clean cloth.
  7. Inspecting the block and pistons. Check the block surface with a straightedge and feeler gauges. Inspect the cylinder walls and pistons for scoring and cracks. Before installing the new gasket, measure piston protrusion above the block surface with a dial indicator. The gasket thickness is selected based on these measurements (identified by the number of holes or notches on the gasket). Do not install a gasket of arbitrary thickness.
  8. Disassembling the cylinder head. Compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor, and place the valves, retainers, springs and keepers in numbered containers sorted by cylinder. Remove the old valve stem seals and replace all of them without exception. Clean the combustion chambers and ports without damaging the seats. Do not use abrasive wheels that scratch the aluminum.
  9. Inspection. Pressure-test the head for leaks to find cracks, the most common damage after overheating. Measure the flatness of the head surface: the tolerance and the minimum head height are given in the manufacturer's specifications. Check the valve-to-guide clearance with a bore gauge and a micrometer, as well as wear on the valve stems and faces, seat depth and spring condition. If the clearance is out of tolerance, the guides must be replaced. This work is done at a machine shop: pressing out the old guides, pressing in new ones, reaming to size and cutting the seats for new valves.
  10. Resurfacing. The amount of metal that can be removed is strictly limited, and after resurfacing a thicker gasket is sometimes selected. Do not resurface beyond the tolerance: the head height will drop, the compression ratio will rise, and the valves may hit the pistons. If metal was removed, recalculate the valve-to-piston clearance.
  11. Lapping and assembling the valves. Lap the valves to the seats with lapping compound, then thoroughly clean the head, ports and the oil and coolant passages. Install new valve stem seals (lubricate the stems with oil and fit the seals with the proper installer tool, without tilting them or damaging the lip). Assemble the valves, springs, retainers and keepers. Tap the end of the valve stem to seat the keepers.
  12. Preparing for installation. Thoroughly clean the block surface of old gasket residue without letting debris fall into the cylinders and ports. Blow out and wipe the cylinder head bolt holes; there must be no oil or coolant in them. Install the new gasket with the correct side up onto the locating dowels, without sealant unless the manufacturer's specifications call for it.
  13. Installing the cylinder head. Place the head on the block and lubricate the threads and the underside of the heads of the new bolts according to the specifications. Tightening is done in several stages: an initial torque in sequence from the center outward, then angle tightening (the torques and angles are given in the specifications for this engine; do not guess). Use an angle gauge for the angle tightening, not eyeballing.
  14. Camshafts and belt. Install the hydraulic lifters and followers in their original positions, lubricate and install the camshafts, and tighten the bearing caps evenly to the specified torque. Install the timing belt according to the marks and locking tools, check the tension using the standard procedure, remove the locking tools and turn the crankshaft by hand through two full revolutions. The marks and locking tools must line up again. If the camshafts or the high-pressure pump do not engage the locking tools, do not start the engine; reinstall the belt.
  15. Everything else. Install new injector seals and washers, and install the injectors to the specified torque. Connect the fuel lines using new or verified parts, tightened to the specified torque, install the manifolds with new gaskets, the turbocharger (priming the oil feed line with oil), the ducts, sensors and connectors. Install the right engine mount and the undercover.
  16. Refilling and first start. Fill with coolant and thoroughly bleed the air from the system. Fill with fresh oil and install a new filter if oil and coolant have mixed. Prime the fuel system and crank the engine with the starter, without starting it, until oil pressure builds. Start the engine, let it run until it reaches operating temperature, and check for leaks and fault codes in the control unit.
  17. Post-repair check. Check the coolant level after the engine has cooled down and after warming up, top up if necessary and bleed the air again. Check for white smoke, bubbles in the expansion tank and leaks. After a few hundred kilometers, change the oil and check the coolant level. Re-tightening the cylinder head bolts is not required on this engine unless the manufacturer's specifications call for it.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves the timing system, the high-pressure fuel system and the sealing of the cylinder head, so mistakes are very costly. Take torques, tightening angles, flatness tolerances and guide clearances for this engine only from the manufacturer's specifications; no figures are given here on purpose, because they cannot be verified. Cap all open Common Rail ports, since fine dirt ruins the injectors. If you lack experience and the necessary timing locking tools, leave disassembly and assembly to a specialist shop. Before an expensive repair, make sure the cause of the fault is really the cylinder head (a crack, burnt valves or valve wear) and not the cooling system or the injectors.