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Autopapyrus · Golden Dragon XML6 (2020)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/golden-dragon/xml6-series/ignition-switch-contact-block-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Golden Dragon XML6 (2020): Ignition Switch Contact Block Replacement

The ignition switch contact block on Golden Dragon XML6-series buses is located in the steering column or in the dashboard to the left of the driver. It supplies power to the instruments, the starter, and the body circuits. Typical signs of wear: power is lost in the "ignition" position, the starter does not engage on the first try, or the wires get hot or melt. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials. Below is a general procedure that applies to this category of bus.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 10 Tools: Phillips and flat-blade (slotted) screwdrivers, socket set and ratchet, thin flat-blade pick for retaining tabs, multimeter, test light, marker or stickers for labeling wires, gloves, flashlight

Part

  • 🔩 Ignition switch contact block, either as a complete assembly or the contact block alone, matching the lock cylinder installed on the bus. Pricing and fitment vary by version and trim. If the key and lock cylinder are worn, it usually makes more sense to buy the complete lock assembly with keys

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Shut off the engine, remove the key, and turn off the battery disconnect switch ("master switch") if the bus has one. If there is no disconnect switch, remove the negative terminal from the battery. Wait 5-10 minutes: on a diesel vehicle with control units, the residual voltage needs time to dissipate.
  2. Remove the lower trim cover (shroud) of the steering column or the panel around the ignition switch. It is usually held by 2-4 screws and plastic clips. If the column has tilt adjustment, lock it in the middle position.
  3. Locate the contact block. It sits behind or below the lock cylinder and connects through a connector or a set of wires. Before disconnecting, photograph the connector and label the wires. Mark the power wires (usually thick, from the battery), ignition, starter, and accessory wires.
  4. Confirm that the contact block is really the problem. Turn the key to the "ignition" and "start" positions and use a multimeter to check the voltage drop across the contacts. If it is more than 0.3-0.5 V under load, or the contacts are black and burned, the block needs to be replaced.
  5. Disconnect the connector by pressing the locking tab. If the wires are attached to screw terminals, loosen the screws and remove the wires one at a time, labeling each one.
  6. Remove the contact block. In most designs it is held by one or two screws, or by a plastic retainer on the lock housing. Remove the screws or release the clip with a thin flat-blade pick, then pull the block off in the direction away from the cylinder. Do not remove the lock cylinder itself if you are replacing only the contact part.
  7. Insert the new block into the same slot. The "off" position (LOCK/OFF) must line up with the key position, otherwise the switch will work out of alignment. Secure the block with screws or the clip. Tighten the screws without much force, because the plastic housing cracks easily. The exact torque value is not specified for this part.
  8. Connect the wires using your labels and photos. Make sure the terminals and connector are fully seated, with no play, and that the insulation is not damaged. Burned or darkened terminals are best re-crimped with new ring or spade terminals, otherwise the new block will fail quickly.
  9. Reconnect the battery and test operation: "accessory" position, "ignition" (the gauges and warning lights come on), and "start" (the starter cranks, and the key returns to "ignition" when released). Then turn the ignition off and check that power to the instruments is completely cut.
  10. Reassemble the panel and shroud. Check that, with the key removed and the steering wheel turned, the column locks (if equipped with a steering lock), and that the key can be removed only in the LOCK position.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work only with the battery disconnected: the ignition switch circuits carry heavy power wires with high current, and a short circuit can cause a fire. If the wires are melted or show signs of overheating, find the cause (an overloaded circuit, a poor connection, a faulty relay) and fix it, otherwise the new block will fail. If you have no experience with bus electrical systems, go to a repair shop: a wiring mistake can lead to unintended engine starting or loss of power to the control units.