Autopapyrus · Great Wall Hover H3 (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/great-wall/hover-h3/instrument-cluster-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/great-wall/hover-h3/instrument-cluster-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Great Wall Hover H3 (1st Generation): Instrument Cluster Replacement
The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so this is the general removal principle for SUVs in this class. The job comes down to removing the trim hood, undoing a few mounting screws, and disconnecting the connectors. The main thing is not to break the plastic clips or mix up the connector plugs.
Part
- 🔩 Instrument cluster (gauge panel) assembly for a 2010 Hover H3 with the 2.4 engine. OE number not given: the H3 had different cluster versions depending on market and trim level, so it is best to compare the appearance and connectors of the old and new clusters
Step by step
12 steps- Shut off the engine, turn the ignition off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait 5-10 minutes so the capacitors discharge and the airbag protection activates. If the car has a radio with an anti-theft code, find out the code beforehand.
- If the steering column is adjustable, set it to its lowest and most extended position. This gives you more room to reach the cluster.
- Remove the decorative trim (hood) around the instrument cluster. It is usually held by clips and 1-3 screws. The screws may be hidden under nearby plugs or located underneath. Pry the trim along its edge with a plastic trim tool without using much force.
- If the trim gets in the way, remove the lower steering column cover. It is secured by several screws from below and by clips.
- Remove the screws that hold the cluster to the dash. There are usually 2-4, located on top or on the sides of the housing. Put the screws in a container, because they are small.
- Carefully pull the cluster toward you by 5-10 cm (2-4 in). At the back there are one or two connectors and sometimes a cable or a valve. Take a photo of the connections before disconnecting anything.
- Press the connector locks and disconnect the plugs. Pull on the connector body, not on the wires. If a lock will not release, do not yank on it. Look again at where the lock is.
- Remove the old cluster. Compare it with the new one: the housing shape, connectors, gauge faces and warning lights (including ABS, airbag, and transfer case mode indicators) must match.
- If the new cluster has no backlighting or warning lights, transfer the bulb sockets from the old one (if they are removable). Remove the sockets by turning them a quarter turn counterclockwise.
- Connect the plugs to the new cluster and make sure they click into place. Secure the cluster with the screws and reinstall the trim and hood.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal and turn the ignition on. Check the needles, backlighting, warning lights (they should come on when the ignition is switched on and go out after the engine starts), fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and speedometer. Also check that the turn signals and high beams shown on the cluster work.
- Take a test drive of 5-10 minutes and compare the speedometer reading with a GPS navigator. Reconnect and check the radio and clock.
Common mistakes and warnings
- The mileage on a new or used cluster will differ from the real mileage. Changing the odometer reading without a legal basis is not allowed. Keep the replacement paperwork so you can explain the discrepancy when selling the car. Do not disassemble the steering wheel or the airbag area if you lack experience: do not unplug the airbag connectors and do not touch the steering wheel clock spring. If part of the cluster does not work after replacement, the usual cause is a connector that is not fully seated or a broken lock tab, not the cluster itself.