← Jolion
Autopapyrus · Haval Jolion 1.5 Turbo (2024)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/jolion/catalytic-converter-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Haval Jolion 1.5 Turbo (2024): Catalytic Converter Replacement

Replacing the catalytic converter on a Haval Jolion with the 1.5 Turbo engine (GW4B15A) requires lifting the front of the vehicle and disconnecting the exhaust system before and after the catalytic converter. The main difficulty is seized flange bolts caused by high exhaust temperatures.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours Steps: 19 Tools: jack, jack stands, socket set 15-19 mm, ratchet handle, extensions, box-end wrenches, penetrating oil (WD-40), torque wrench, protective gloves, safety glasses

Part

  • 🔩 catalytic converter. OE equivalent: confirm by VIN with a dealer. Exhaust manifold and downpipe gaskets. High-temperature exhaust sealant

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level, solid surface. Let the exhaust system cool completely (at least 1 hour after driving).
  2. Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and place sturdy jack stands under the side sills (rocker panels). Make sure the vehicle is stable.
  3. Remove the plastic engine undercover, if equipped (6-8 clips).
  4. Generously apply penetrating oil to all threaded connections on the exhaust manifold flange and the downpipe flange. Let it soak for 15-20 minutes.
  5. Disconnect the connector of the front oxygen sensor (the one before the catalytic converter) and the rear sensor (the one after the converter). Move the wiring out of the way.
  6. Remove the 2-3 nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold (15-17 mm socket). If the nuts won't budge, apply penetrating oil again, use an impact socket, or heat them with a torch (carefully, since fuel lines are nearby).
  7. Remove the nuts securing the catalytic converter to the middle section of the exhaust system (usually 15-16 mm, 2 nuts). Disconnect the exhaust rubber hangers near the catalytic converter.
  8. Carefully remove the old catalytic converter from under the vehicle. Inspect the mating flanges for cracks and deformation.
  9. Clean the sealing surfaces of the flanges with a wire brush to remove carbon deposits and remnants of the old gaskets.
  10. Install new gaskets on the exhaust manifold flange and the middle exhaust section flange. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature sealant to the gaskets.
  11. Bring the new catalytic converter into position and align the holes. Start the bolts/studs by hand, front flange first, then the rear one.
  12. Apply copper or graphite anti-seize compound to the threads of the flange bolts to make future disassembly easier.
  13. Tighten the flange nuts in a crisscross pattern in two stages: first snug them by hand, then use a torque wrench. The recommended tightening torque for exhaust flanges on GW 1.5 turbo engines is 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft) (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual). Do not overtighten, or you will deform the gaskets or strip the studs.
  14. Reinstall the exhaust rubber hangers. Make sure the exhaust pipe does not touch any body or suspension components.
  15. Connect the front and rear oxygen sensor connectors. Check that they are securely locked.
  16. Reinstall the engine undercover, if you removed it.
  17. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  18. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. Listen to the exhaust system for leaks (hissing, loud exhaust noise). If you find a leak, shut off the engine, wait for it to cool, and retighten the connections.
  19. Check for trouble codes with an OBD-II scanner. If the Check Engine light does not go out after 2-3 warm-up cycles, diagnose the oxygen sensors and check the new part for defects.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work only on a completely cooled exhaust system, because burns from hot metal are deep and painful. When removing seized bolts, do not use excessive force, since you could break studs in the engine block or crack a flange, which leads to an expensive repair. If the Check Engine light stays on after replacement or the vehicle has lost power, check that the oxygen sensors are connected correctly and that there are no exhaust leaks. Incorrect installation can let unmetered air in and cause incorrect oxygen sensor readings.