← Shuma
Autopapyrus · Kia Shuma (II generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/shuma/complete-steering-rack-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Shuma (II generation): Complete Steering Rack Replacement

Replacing the rack on the Shuma II is done from underneath, after removing the front wheels and disconnecting the tie rod ends and the steering shaft universal joint. The most critical points are: locking the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position, sealing the power steering lines properly, tightening all fasteners to spec, bleeding the system, and the mandatory wheel alignment afterward.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours (plus wheel alignment) Steps: 15 Tools: jack and jack stands, lug wrench, socket and wrench set (10-24 mm), tie rod end puller, torque wrench, pliers, marker, drain pan for fluid, hose or syringe for bleeding, steering wheel lock (holder), plugs/caps for the lines

Part

  • 🔩 Complete power steering rack for Kia Shuma II (complete rack, not separate boots or tie rods). With a complete rack you will also need new sealing washers or O-rings for the high-pressure lines and fresh power steering fluid. Power steering fluid: 1-2 L (1.1-2.1 qt)

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Remove the key, but make sure the steering column does not lock: secure the steering wheel in the center position so you do not damage the splines or the airbag (SRS) clock spring when the wheel turns.
  2. Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front of the car, set it on jack stands, and remove the wheels. Remove the engine undercover (skid plate) if equipped.
  3. Mark with a marker the position of the universal joint on the rack shaft splines and the position of the locknuts on the tie rods (for a rough toe setting).
  4. Remove the bolt of the lower universal joint of the steering shaft on the rack shaft. Slide the joint off the splines (if necessary, spread the clamp slightly; do not hammer on the shaft).
  5. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles: remove the nuts and separate the joints with a puller. Do not strike the stud with a hammer, to avoid damaging the boot and the ball joint.
  6. Place a drain pan underneath and disconnect the power steering lines from the rack (pressure and return). Let the fluid drain, then plug the openings of the rack and the lines to keep dirt out.
  7. If they are in the way, loosen or lower the subframe or crossmember, and disconnect the sway bar links. The amount of work depends on the trim level and the condition of the fasteners, so assess it on the car.
  8. Support the rack and remove its mounting brackets (clamps or bolts, 2-4 points). Take the rack out through the opening on the wheel well side. It is heavy and bulky, so it is better to work with a helper.
  9. Compare the new rack with the old one: the position of the fittings, the length of the tie rods, and the position of the rubber bushings. Transfer the rubber mounting bushings and locknuts if they do not come with the new rack. Install the tie rod ends with the same number of turns, using the marks.
  10. Install the rack in the reverse order. The rack must be in the neutral (center) position with the steering wheel straight. Secure the mounts and tighten them to the manufacturer's specifications (with a torque wrench), especially the universal joint bolt, the tie rod end stud nuts (with cotter pins), and the subframe.
  11. Connect the power steering lines using new sealing washers or O-rings. Tighten the fittings moderately, without overtightening, or you will damage the threads or the sealing seat.
  12. Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid up to the MAX mark (use the fluid type specified by the manufacturer, usually ATF Dexron or a dedicated power steering fluid; check the reservoir cap or the owner's manual).
  13. Bleeding: with the front wheels off the ground, start the engine for 20-30 seconds, check the level, then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock 10-15 times with the engine running, topping up the fluid as needed. There should be no bubbles in the reservoir and no pump noise.
  14. Check all connections for leaks. Install the wheels and, with the car on the ground, tighten the wheel nuts to spec in a crisscross pattern.
  15. Be sure to have the wheel alignment done on an alignment rack and take the car for a test drive: the steering wheel should sit straight, the rack should move without binding, and there should be no knocking or leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Steering is a safety system. If you have no experience, leave the job to a repair shop; mistakes in tightening or in installing the universal joint (misaligned by a spline) are dangerous. Tightening the tie rod ends, the universal joint, and the rack mounts to the manufacturer's specifications is mandatory. The exact procedure for this model and engine is not fully documented in publicly available service materials, so the order of steps (especially regarding the subframe and sway bar links) is given as a general principle; verify the torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.