Autopapyrus · Lada 2115 (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/2115/front-suspension-ball-joint-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Lada 2115 (1st generation): Front Suspension Ball Joint Replacement

On the Lada 2115, the ball joint is attached to the lower control arm by a stud with a nut, and to the steering knuckle by two bolts. Signs of wear: knocking and rumbling over bumps, wheel play when rocking it vertically, and a torn dust boot. The allowable play of the stud in the joint is no more than 0.7 mm, and the stud must not move freely under hand pressure.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours per side Steps: 13 Tools: 17 mm and 19 mm wrenches, ball joint puller, jack, jack stand, wheel chocks, lug wrench, pry bar, deep socket with a breaker bar, torque wrench (recommended), WD-40 or similar penetrating oil for seized threads

Part

🔩 Front suspension ball joint for VAZ 2110-2115 (lower, complete with dust boot), 2 per car. Replace them as a pair. If only the dust boot is damaged and there is no play, a boot repair kit is available separately. Optionally, buy new self-locking stud nuts if the threads or the locking feature are worn

Step by step

13 steps

Park the car on level ground, put it in gear, and set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
Loosen the lug bolts while the wheel is still on the ground. Raise the front of the car with the jack, place a jack stand under the body, and remove the wheel.
Apply penetrating oil to the threads of the stud nut and the knuckle mounting bolts, and let it soak in for a few minutes.
Remove the ball joint stud nut with a 19 mm wrench (if the stud turns, hold it with a second wrench or a hex key).
Use a puller to press the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm eye. Do not knock the stud out with a hammer: this damages the threads and the dust boots of the surrounding parts.
Remove the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (17 mm wrench), supporting the joint as you do so.
Lower the control arm and take out the ball joint. If it is in the way, pry the arm down slightly with a pry bar.
Inspect the removed joint: the stud must not move under hand pressure, and the dust boot must be intact. Also check the seat in the knuckle: it must be clean, with no scoring or corrosion buildup.
Install the new joint in reverse order. Take care not to damage the dust boot, and do not forget the spacer sleeve if one was part of the original assembly. Clean the mating surfaces before installation.
Insert the stud into the control arm eye, thread the nut on by hand, and tighten the two bolts securing the joint to the knuckle. Then tighten the stud nut. Take the exact torque values from the manufacturer's specifications. As a rough guide, the stud nut takes about 60-90 N·m (44-66 lb-ft), and the knuckle bolts take noticeably less. Do not overtighten the threads, and always use a serviceable locking element on the nut.
Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern (about 100 N·m (74 lb-ft), per specification).
Check for smooth movement and no play by rocking the wheel vertically. Take a test drive at low speed and listen to the suspension.
After the replacement, be sure to have the wheel alignment (toe and camber) adjusted. Otherwise you will get uneven tire wear and the steering will pull.

Common mistakes and warnings

The ball joint is part of the steering and suspension, which means it is a active safety component. If a joint fails while driving, you can lose control of the vehicle. If you lack experience or the proper tools, go to a repair shop. Do not use badly worn or low-quality joints for the replacement, and never work under a car that is supported only by a jack.

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