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Autopapyrus · Lexus LS460 4.6 V8 1UR-FSE (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lexus/ls/cylinder-head-gasket-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Lexus LS460 4.6 V8 1UR-FSE (2007): Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement

Replacing the cylinder head gaskets on the 1UR-FSE V8 is one of the most labor-intensive jobs you can do on this engine. The engine must be removed from the vehicle because of the tight engine bay layout of the LS460. The engine uses three-layer steel head gaskets and torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts, which are tightened to a specified torque and then turned a further set angle.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 22-30 hours Steps: 28 Tools: Lift or inspection pit, socket and ratchet set, torque wrench (up to 200 N·m (148 lb-ft)), torque-angle gauge for bolt tightening, pulley puller, camshaft holding tool set, containers for draining oil and coolant (8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt) each), injector puller, compression tester (for post-assembly check)

Part

  • 🔩 Left and right cylinder head gaskets (OEM Toyota/Lexus 11115-38020 or 11115-38021, 11115-36061 depending on model year), cylinder head bolt set (TTY bolts, single-use, must not be reused), valve cover gaskets, camshaft seals, timing chain seals, Toyota Long Life Coolant (8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt)), 5W-30 engine oil (8-9 L (8.5-9.5 qt)), oil filter
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

28 steps
  1. Disconnect the battery terminals, drain the coolant through the drain plugs on the engine block and the radiator, and drain the engine oil.
  2. Remove the plastic engine covers, the intake air ducts and the throttle body.
  3. Disconnect the connectors for the ignition coils and sensors (MAF, oxygen sensors, temperature sensors, oil pressure sensor), and the high-pressure fuel lines (the D-4S dual-injection system operates at pressures up to 13 MPa (1,885 psi), so be careful).
  4. Remove the intake manifold (secured by 12-16 bolts, reinstallation torque 21-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft)) and the exhaust manifolds on both sides (reinstallation torque 40-48 N·m (30-35 lb-ft)).
  5. Dismantle the cooling system: disconnect the radiator hoses, the thermostat and the water pump (integrated into the timing chain cover).
  6. To reach the heads, the engine has to be removed from the engine bay. Separate the transmission (remove the torque converter bolts through the inspection opening and disconnect the shift cables), remove the engine mount bolts, disconnect the drive shafts (if AWD), the steering rack, and the exhaust system from the manifolds.
  7. Use a crane or lifting beam to raise the engine straight up and guide it out of the subframe. Mount it on an engine stand for further disassembly.
  8. Remove the valve covers (reinstallation torque 10-12 N·m (88-106 lb-in)) and install the camshaft holding tools with cylinder 1 at TDC.
  9. Remove the timing chain tensioners (primary and secondary) and take off the timing chain cover (integrated with the water pump and oil pump). Be careful: there are more than 30 mounting bolts of different lengths. Reinstallation torque is 18-22 N·m (13-16 lb-ft) for the main bolts and 8-10 N·m (71-89 lb-in) for the small ones.
  10. Remove the timing chains (the primary chains run from the crankshaft to the intake camshafts, and the secondary chains run from the intake to the exhaust camshafts on each head) and the camshaft sprockets.
  11. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts (reinstallation torque 18-22 N·m (13-16 lb-ft), sequence from the center outward) and remove the camshafts and the hydraulic lash adjusters. Label each lash adjuster, because it must go back in its original location.
  12. Loosen the cylinder head bolts. Loosen them from the outside toward the center, gradually, in 2-3 passes. Discard the TTY bolts, as they must never be reused.
  13. Carefully lift off the cylinder head. Use a plastic mallet and do not use metal tools, because aluminum heads are easily damaged. Remove the old head gasket.
  14. Clean the mating surfaces of the head and block to remove all gasket residue (use a plastic scraper and solvent). Check the surfaces for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauge. The maximum allowed is 0.05 mm over a length of 100 mm. If it is exceeded, the head needs to be resurfaced (check the service manual for the maximum allowed material removal, usually no more than 0.2-0.3 mm).
  15. Inspect the combustion chambers, valves and valve seats. If necessary, lap the valves, replace the valve stem seals and check the valve springs.
  16. Place the new head gasket on the block (the left and right gaskets are different and marked L/R; install them without sealant). Set the cylinder head in place.
  17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence (generally, for Toyota V8 engines, from the center outward; check the service manual for the exact numbering sequence for the 1UR-FSE). Tightening procedure for the TTY bolts on Toyota/Lexus V8 engines: first pass, 27-36 N·m (20-27 lb-ft) evenly on all bolts; second pass, turn each bolt a further 90 degrees; third pass (if specified), turn another 90 degrees. Use a torque-angle gauge.
  18. Install the camshafts (aligning the timing marks) and tighten the camshaft bearing caps from the center outward to 18-22 N·m (13-16 lb-ft).
  19. Install the timing chains and align the marks on the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft. Install the chain tensioners (before installation, compress the plunger and lock it with a pin, then remove the pin after installation).
  20. Install the timing chain cover with new gaskets and seals (use Toyota FIPG sealant in the specified areas). Tighten the bolts according to size: large ones to 18-22 N·m (13-16 lb-ft), small ones to 8-10 N·m (71-89 lb-in).
  21. Install the valve covers with new gaskets (torque 10-12 N·m (88-106 lb-in)).
  22. Reinstall the engine in the vehicle in reverse order: secure it on the mounts and reconnect the transmission, drive shafts, exhaust system and steering rack.
  23. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets (intake torque 21-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft), exhaust torque 40-48 N·m (30-35 lb-ft)).
  24. Reconnect all sensor and ignition coil connectors, the fuel lines and the cooling system hoses.
  25. Fill with fresh engine oil (system capacity with filter 8.2 L (8.7 qt)) and coolant (system capacity about 10 L (10.6 qt); use only Toyota Long Life Coolant or a compatible one).
  26. Reconnect the battery and crank the engine with the starter without starting it to build oil pressure (disable the fuel pump or the injectors).
  27. Start the engine, bring it to operating temperature and check for oil, coolant and fuel leaks. Clear the fault codes with a scan tool (adaptation errors are possible after disconnecting the battery).
  28. Take a test drive and check compression in all cylinders (it should be 11-13 bar (160-189 psi), with no more than 1 bar (15 psi) difference between cylinders).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job requires professional-level skills, special equipment (a crane or lifting beam for engine removal, an engine stand, and a torque wrench with an angle gauge) and strict adherence to the assembly sequence. The TTY cylinder head bolts are tightened using the torque-plus-angle method. Reusing old bolts or tightening them incorrectly will lead to another head gasket failure or a warped head. Incorrect valve timing will cause the valves to hit the pistons and will destroy the engine. If you have no experience rebuilding V8 engines, take the vehicle to a specialist repair shop.