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Autopapyrus · Nissan 350Z 3.5 V6 VQ35DE (2005)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/350z/complete-engine-overhaul/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan 350Z 3.5 V6 VQ35DE (2005): Complete Engine Overhaul

The VQ35DE is an aluminum V6 with a chain-driven valvetrain, with two timing chains at the rear of the engine. Before starting the repair, determine the cause: 2005-2006 engines ("Rev-Up") are known for high oil consumption caused by internal leakage through the oil gallery gaskets in the block. Sometimes this can be fixed by replacing these gaskets without a full rebuild. An overhaul is needed when compression is low, the bearings knock, the cylinders are scored, or oil pressure is lost.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 40-70 hours (engine removal and installation 8-12 hours, the rest is inspection, block machining and assembly) Steps: 15 Tools: lift or pit, engine hoist or crane, engine stand, torque wrench (low range and up to 200+ N·m (150+ lb-ft)), angle-torque gauge set, bore gauge and micrometers, Plastigage, camshaft and crankshaft locking tools, crankshaft pulley puller, socket set with Torx and E-Torx sockets and wrenches, engine sealant, containers for draining fluids, bags and markers for labeling parts

Part

  • 🔩 engine gasket set (upper and lower), main and rod bearing set (selected by the markings on the crankshaft and block), crankshaft thrust washers, piston rings (oversize pistons if necessary), cylinder head, connecting rod and main cap bolts (single-use), timing chains with tensioners, guides and sprockets, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, crankshaft and camshaft seals, oil filter, engine oil, coolant, spark plugs, accessory drive belt. The cost of a full set of consumables, not including machine shop work, varies widely depending on brand and the extent of cylinder head and block repair
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Diagnostics before disassembly. Measure compression on all six cylinders, oil pressure and oil consumption. Check for coolant getting into the oil. If the only problem is oil consumption, check the oil gallery gaskets first, since a block rebuild may not be needed.
  2. Preparation. Disconnect the battery, drain the oil, coolant and A/C system (refrigerant must be recovered by a professional). Remove the hood, remove the engine undercover and, if needed for access, the front bumper.
  3. Removing the accessories. Remove the air duct and mass air flow sensor, throttle body, radiator with fans, A/C compressor and alternator (without disconnecting the A/C hoses unless you plan to replace them), power steering pump, exhaust manifolds with catalytic converters and the intake manifold. Photograph and label all connectors and vacuum hoses.
  4. Removing the engine. The procedure differs between manual and automatic transmissions: disconnect the driveshaft and exhaust system, support or lower the subframe, then disconnect the transmission and either remove it with the engine or separate it from the engine. On the 350Z the engine is usually removed either together with the transmission or separately, through the top of the engine bay. Choose the method based on your experience and equipment. Secure the engine on the hoist and support the mounts and transmission while disconnecting them.
  5. Mounting on the stand and disassembly. Put the engine on the stand. Remove the valve covers, ignition coils, front covers, timing chains (note the position of the marks and photograph them), camshafts, cylinder heads (loosen the bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence, in several passes), oil pans (upper aluminum and lower steel), oil pump, pistons with connecting rods and the crankshaft. Lay out all parts by cylinder.
  6. Inspection. Measure the cylinders with a bore gauge (taper, out-of-round, wear), check the flatness of the block and cylinder heads with a straightedge, measure the crankshaft journals with a micrometer, check crankshaft runout and camshaft runout, and inspect the cylinder walls. Take the allowable dimensions and clearances from the manufacturer's service manual for the VQ35DE. Do not assemble the engine without taking measurements. If necessary, take the block and cylinder heads to a machine shop for honing, surface grinding, valve seat repair and valve guide replacement.
  7. Selecting bearings. Main and rod bearings are selected by the grade codes marked on the crankshaft and block. Check the markings and verify the oil clearance with Plastigage during assembly. Do not reuse old bearings or single-use bolts.
  8. Thorough cleaning. Clean all oil passages in the block, cylinder heads and crankshaft with brushes and compressed air. Dirt or honing residue in the passages will quickly destroy the new bearings. Replace the oil passage plugs and the gallery gaskets.
  9. Assembling the bottom end. Lubricate the bearings and journals with assembly lube. Install the crankshaft with the thrust washers, and the main caps in the correct order and orientation. Tighten the caps in several stages in the exact sequence, followed by the angle tightening required by the service manual. Check that the crankshaft turns evenly by hand. Install the pistons with rings (stagger the ring gaps). Tighten the rod caps according to the service manual: as a rough guide, the first stage is 18-21 N·m (13-15 lb-ft) followed by angle tightening. Verify the exact values against the service manual.
  10. Installing the cylinder heads. Install new cylinder head gaskets and new bolts. Tighten them in the specified sequence, in stages, with angle tightening. Install the camshafts, aligning the marks. Tighten the bearing caps to a low torque in numerical order (as a guideline, about 6 N·m (4.4 lb-ft) on the first stage and 8-10 N·m (5.9-7.4 lb-ft) on the final stage).
  11. Timing drive. Install the oil pump, then the timing chains with new tensioners and guides, strictly aligned with the marks on the sprockets and chains. Turn the crankshaft by hand through two revolutions and recheck that the marks line up. Apply sealant to the front cover joints following the pattern in the service manual.
  12. Oil pans and accessories. Install the oil pans with sealant, the new oil pump, water pump, thermostat, new oil filter, intake manifold with new gaskets, spark plugs and coils.
  13. Installing the engine. Install the engine in the reverse order, connect the transmission, engine mounts, exhaust, connectors and hoses using the photos you took. On manual transmission cars, replace the clutch and have the flywheel inspected and resurfaced. This is a convenient time to do it.
  14. Filling and first start. Fill with oil and install a new filter, bleed the cooling system and fill it with coolant. Before starting, crank the engine with the starter with the coils removed (or the spark plugs removed) until oil pressure appears. For the first start, let the engine idle without load for 10-15 minutes and check for leaks, oil pressure and temperature.
  15. Break-in. For the first 1,000-1,500 km (600-900 mi), avoid high revs and sudden loads. Change the break-in oil and filter after about 1,000-2,000 km (600-1,200 mi). Check the oil and coolant levels and the tightness of the fasteners after the first few trips.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Always verify the exact clearances, tightening torques (especially for the cylinder head, main and rod bolts with angle tightening) and the tightening sequence against the manufacturer's service manual for the VQ35DE. The guideline values given here are not a substitute for it. This is a complex job that requires precision measuring tools. If you have no experience building engines and no access to machine shop work on the block and cylinder heads, leave the inspection and machining to a specialist shop. Use only new single-use bolts for the cylinder heads, connecting rods and main caps.
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