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Autopapyrus · Nissan Almera N15 1.6 GA16DE (2000)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/almera/manual-transmission-removal-and-installation/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Almera N15 1.6 GA16DE (2000): Manual Transmission Removal and Installation

On the N15, the transmission comes out downward and to the side, while the engine is supported by a jack or support bar. The job is not complicated in principle, but it is labor-intensive and requires care: the transmission is heavy, and the input shaft must be inserted into the clutch disc without misalignment. Exact torque specifications for this transmission are not confirmed in publicly available sources, so ranges or standard values for the bolt grade are given below.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-7 hours Steps: 19 Tools: lift or pit with ramps, hydraulic transmission jack or transmission stand, socket and wrench set (mostly 10-17 mm, socket extensions), ball joint separator or pry bar, jack stands, oil drain pan, clutch disc alignment tool, copper grease for splines, torque wrench

Part

  • 🔩 It is recommended to replace the clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing) at the same time if you are removing the transmission because of the clutch or that is the job you need to do. You will also need manual transmission fluid (API GL-4 viscosity grade, for example 75W-90, capacity about 2-3 L (2.1-3.2 qt); check the exact value in the fluid capacity table) and new driveshaft seals if they were leaking
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Prepare your workspace: the transmission weighs several dozen kilograms, so you need a transmission stand or a reliable jack with a support cradle.
  2. Remove the battery and its tray or base if they get in the way of access to the top of the transmission. Remove the air intake and the air filter housing together with the ducts if they cover the upper bolts and the starter.
  3. Disconnect the wires from the starter, from the reverse light switch, and from the speed sensor on the transmission. Label the connectors. Remove the ground cable from the transmission.
  4. Disconnect the clutch cable (if the clutch is cable-operated) or remove the slave cylinder of the hydraulic system without disconnecting the hydraulic line, and move it aside. Disconnect the shift and select rods or cables from the levers on the transmission. Remember the position of the washers, pins, and retaining clips.
  5. Raise the front of the car and set it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels and the engine undercover, if equipped. Drain the oil from the transmission through the drain plug, then reinstall the plug with a new gasket.
  6. Disconnect the driveshafts from the transmission. To do this, unbolt the ball joints from the lower control arms (or disconnect the tie rod ends and stabilizer bar links so the hub can be turned). Pry the inner joints out of the transmission with a pry bar and tie up the driveshafts with wire so that the joints do not hang down or bend at an angle. Plug the openings in the transmission with a rag or plugs so you do not lose oil.
  7. Position the jack under the engine oil pan using a wooden block and lightly support the engine. Alternatively, install a support bar across the engine bay. The engine must not be left unsupported when removing the mounts.
  8. Remove the starter: two mounting bolts. Move it aside together with the wires or remove it completely.
  9. Remove the rear (transverse) powertrain mount and the left-side transmission mount. Mark or photograph the position of the brackets and bolts beforehand. Mount bolts usually have different lengths, so lay them out in their proper places.
  10. Remove the bolts connecting the transmission case to the engine block. The bolts are of different lengths and are located at the top and bottom. Lay them out in installation order or draw a diagram. Remove the lower clutch housing cover (if equipped).
  11. Position the transmission jack under the transmission and secure it with a strap. Pull the transmission back slightly along the input shaft axis until the shaft is completely out of the clutch disc hub, without letting the weight of the transmission hang on the shaft. Then lower the transmission and roll it out.
  12. Inspect the flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing. If you are replacing the clutch, remove the pressure plate evenly, in a crisscross pattern, loosening the bolts gradually. Check the flywheel for cracks and heat discoloration (bluing); if it is badly worn, have it resurfaced or replace it. Apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines and the release bearing guide (only a thin layer, so grease does not get on the disc).
  13. Install the pressure plate and disc: install the disc with the side marked for the transmission facing the transmission (follow the markings on the disc itself), and center it with an alignment tool using the pilot bearing or bushing in the crankshaft. Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 passes. Confirm the exact torque for the pressure plate bolts on this engine against the torque table for the bolt grade (usually 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft) for M8 bolts), and do not overtighten.
  14. Install the transmission in reverse order: bring it up on the jack, align the input shaft with the disc splines, and slide it into place without force. If the shaft does not go in, turn the crankshaft slightly using the pulley bolt (with a gear engaged, or by turning the output shaft), and do not pull the transmission in with the bolts by "force," or the disc and shaft will be deformed.
  15. Install the bolts securing the transmission to the engine, starting with a few and then the rest. Tighten the powertrain mounts to a torque appropriate for the bolt size, and only with the engine in its normal position (remove the support only after tightening).
  16. Install the starter, the driveshafts (push the inner joints in until the retaining ring clicks, and check by tugging on them), the ball joints or tie rod ends, the shift rods, the clutch actuator, the sensor connectors, and the ground cable. Replace cotter pins and self-locking nuts with new ones wherever they were used.
  17. Fill the transmission with new fluid through the fill hole up to the lower edge of the hole (with the car level). Tighten the plug.
  18. Reconnect the battery. Check clutch operation with the engine off: the pedal should move smoothly and the free play should be within specification. If the system is hydraulic, bleed it if necessary.
  19. Start the engine and check that all gears engage while stationary (with the clutch pressed), and that there is no noise or vibration. Take a test drive at low revs, check clutch operation, and check for oil leaks after 50-100 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves lifting the car and removing a heavy assembly, so use only reliable jack stands and a transmission jack, and never work under the car supported by a single jack. Driveshafts must not be left hanging from their joints, and the engine must always be supported. If you lack experience, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop, because incorrect assembly of the shift linkage or clutch can lead to loss of vehicle control.
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