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Autopapyrus · Nissan Teana 2.5 QR25DE (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/teana/oil-filter-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Teana 2.5 QR25DE (2015): Oil Filter Replacement

On the QR25DE, the filter screws onto the front of the engine block and is accessible from below. Replace it together with the oil, usually every 10,000-15,000 km, and more often under severe driving conditions. Do not replace the filter alone without changing the oil, because you would then have to top off the oil anyway.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 40-60 minutes (including an oil change) Steps: 13 Tools: Lift or inspection pit, oil filter wrench (cup-type or strap-type, for a filter body about 65-68 mm in diameter), drain plug wrench (hex or socket, check the size against your plug), torque wrench, 5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt) drain pan, funnel, shop rags, gloves

Part

  • 🔩 Oil filter for the QR25DE engine. Genuine Nissan 15208-65F0A (also listed in catalogs under 65F0C; the two are interchangeable). Aftermarket alternatives: Nissan-compatible filters from Sakura, Vic, Jakoparts, Mann, Filtron. You will also need a new drain plug washer and fresh oil, about 4.5-5 L (4.8-5.3 qt) (SAE 5W-30 or 5W-40, per the manufacturer's specification)

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 3-5 minutes so the oil thins out, then shut it off. Do not do the job on a fully hot engine, to avoid burns.
  2. Park the car on level ground, on a lift or over a pit. If there is a plastic underbody shield, remove it.
  3. Open the oil filler cap under the engine cover. This lets the oil drain faster and more completely.
  4. Place the drain pan under the oil pan and remove the drain plug. Let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes.
  5. Locate the oil filter on the front of the cylinder block, on the radiator side. Position the drain pan and rags under it, because the remaining oil will run out of the filter.
  6. Unscrew the filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Make sure the old rubber gasket does not stay stuck on the mounting surface of the block.
  7. Wipe the mounting surface with a clean rag. Lubricate the rubber gasket of the new filter with fresh oil. Optionally, fill the filter 1/2 to 2/3 full with oil, but only if it sits upright.
  8. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the block, then tighten it as specified on the filter body (usually about another 3/4 turn). If you use a wrench, the torque is about 15-20 N·m (11-15 lb-ft). Do not overtighten it with the filter wrench, because it will be hard to remove later.
  9. Clean the drain plug and fit a new sealing washer. Tighten the plug to about 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft) (check the exact value against the manufacturer's specification). Do not overtighten, to avoid stripping the threads in the aluminum oil pan.
  10. Pour oil in through the filler neck, starting with about 4 L (4.2 qt). Wait a couple of minutes and check the level with the dipstick. Add oil up to the MAX mark.
  11. Close the filler cap and run the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out within 1-2 seconds. Inspect the filter and drain plug for leaks.
  12. Shut off the engine, wait 5-10 minutes, and check the level again. Top off if necessary. Reinstall the underbody shield and reset the maintenance interval counter, if the car has one.
  13. Take the used oil and old filter to a recycling point. Do not pour them down a drain or throw them out with household trash.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not stack two gaskets on top of each other: if the old gasket stays stuck to the block, the filter will leak and you will lose oil. Do not use filters without an anti-drainback valve, or filters from unknown manufacturers, otherwise oil starvation is possible at startup. The engine sits on the left side of the engine bay, so you may come into contact with the hot exhaust manifold while working. Wear gloves and do not touch the manifold.