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Autopapyrus · Nissan Terrano (D10) 2.0 F4R (2018)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/terrano/accessory-drive-belt-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Terrano (D10) 2.0 F4R (2018): Accessory Drive Belt Replacement

On the F4R, the accessory drive belt drives the alternator, the power steering pump and the A/C compressor. It is separate from the timing belt. To replace it, you release the tension on the automatic tensioner and slip the belt off the pulleys. The usual replacement interval is 60,000-100,000 km (37,000-62,000 mi) or every 4-5 years, and sooner if you see cracks, separation, squealing or obvious rib wear. If you meant the timing belt, that is a different and more complex job that requires locking the crankshaft and camshafts at TDC.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes Steps: 13 Tools: Wrench or socket for the tensioner pulley (usually 15-16 mm for a breaker bar or ratchet, or a hex/square drive in the tensioner itself; check your tensioner), socket for turning the crankshaft, 10-13 mm sockets for the splash shield, flashlight, gloves

Part

  • 🔩 V-ribbed accessory drive belt (alternator/A/C/power steering belt) for the F4R engine, 6 ribs. The exact length depends on the trim (with or without A/C), so order the belt by VIN or match the length and rib count to the old belt. When the car has 90,000-100,000 km (56,000-62,000 mi) or more, it makes sense to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys at the same time
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Shut off the engine, let it cool down, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake.
  2. If it gets in the way, remove the plastic engine undershield. You can reach the crankshaft pulley from below, through the wheel well, or after removing the right front wheel.
  3. Before removing the belt, take a photo or draw a diagram of how it runs around the pulleys. The routing is different on versions with and without A/C.
  4. Inspect the old belt for cracks, fraying and oil contamination. If it is oily, find the leak. It is usually the crankshaft seal or the valve cover gasket. Otherwise the new belt will quickly be ruined.
  5. Locate the automatic tensioner pulley. Put the wrench or socket on its arm or bolt head and turn it against the spring force to loosen the belt. The direction of rotation is clear from the shape of the arm.
  6. While holding the tensioner in the compressed position, slip the belt off one of the smooth pulleys or the alternator pulley. Slowly release the tensioner.
  7. Check the pulleys: spin them by hand. There should be no play, noise, binding or traces of grease. Replace a faulty pulley right away. If you replace the tensioner or an idler pulley, tighten the fasteners to the manufacturer's specification. The typical range for bolts like these is 25-50 N·m (18-37 lb-ft).
  8. Make sure the pulley grooves are clean and free of heavy wear or rust. Wipe them with a dry rag.
  9. Install the new belt on the pulleys following the routing you saved. Put it on the smooth pulley or the alternator pulley last, while the tensioner is held in the compressed position.
  10. Slowly release the tensioner. Make sure all the ribs of the belt sit squarely in the grooves of every pulley, without twisting and without being shifted over by one rib.
  11. Turn the crankshaft 2-3 revolutions in the normal direction of engine rotation using the pulley bolt, then check the belt position on all pulleys again.
  12. Reinstall the undershield, the wheel and the battery terminal. Start the engine and listen at idle and when you switch on the A/C. Squealing, grinding or screeching points to misalignment or a faulty pulley.
  13. After 100-200 km (60-120 mi) of driving, inspect the belt again, both while the engine is running and after it has been stopped.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work only with the engine off and the battery disconnected. The cooling fan can start on its own. Do not put your hands between the belt and a pulley while turning the engine. Do not pry the belt on with a screwdriver or force it on, because you can break the cord and damage the pulleys. If the belt keeps coming off or wears out quickly, the cause is usually a worn pulley or pulley misalignment, not the belt itself. If you need to replace the timing belt, that is a separate job that requires special tools for locking the crankshaft and camshafts. If you have no experience, take it to a repair shop.