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Autopapyrus · Opel Vivaro (II generation) 1.6 CDTi R9M (2018)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/opel/vivaro/transmission-removal-and-installation/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Opel Vivaro (II generation) 1.6 CDTi R9M (2018): Transmission Removal and Installation

The Vivaro II with the R9M engine is front-wheel drive with a transversely mounted engine. The transmission is removed from below, with some components lowered or swung out of the way. The exact procedure and torque specifications for this version are not fully documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is a proven general sequence for transverse front-wheel-drive vans. Check all torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-10 hours (with or without clutch replacement) Steps: 19 Tools: vehicle lift (a pit is not suitable), transmission jack, support bar or engine support fixture to hold the engine from above, socket and wrench set (mostly 13-18 mm), TORX bits, ball joint and tie rod end puller, pry bar, oil drain pan, transmission fill plug wrench, zip ties, marker.

Part

  • 🔩 manual transmission fluid for the 6-speed manual gearbox (type and viscosity per the manufacturer's specification), new driveshaft seals (transmission seals), and, with the transmission removed, a clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, release bearing), fasteners including single-use bolts
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 7 more. See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Preparation. Park the vehicle on a level lift and put it in neutral. If the vehicle has a Start-Stop system, disable it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes. Write down the radio code if one is required.
  2. Remove the engine undertray and the plastic covers under the hood. Drain the transmission fluid (if there is a drain plug), otherwise it will spill out when the driveshafts are pulled.
  3. In the engine bay, remove the air filter with its housing and ducts, as well as the battery and battery tray if they get in the way of access to the top of the transmission. Free the wiring harnesses from the transmission mounts.
  4. Disconnect the sensor connectors on the transmission (reverse light switch, speed sensor, etc.). Label the connectors and release them from their brackets.
  5. Disconnect the clutch release system. If it is hydraulic, do not press the clutch pedal while the cylinder is disconnected. Undo the line or the slave cylinder without opening the system unless necessary. Be prepared to bleed the system if it was opened.
  6. Remove the shift and select cables (or linkage) from the levers on the transmission. First release the retaining clips, then remove the cable bracket from the transmission housing. Secure the cables so they do not get kinked.
  7. Remove the starter (two or three bolts; disconnect the wiring at the starter) and move it aside without straining the wires.
  8. Raise the front of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. Undo the ball joint nuts or the sway bar link, and the tie rod ends, and free the driveshafts from the hubs. Pull the inner joints of the driveshafts out of the transmission. On vehicles with an intermediate shaft, the right driveshaft must be removed with its support bearing in mind. Do not damage the seals. Tie the driveshafts up with wire or zip ties, making sure the joints are not bent too far.
  9. Remove the subframe, or part of it, if that is needed to get the transmission out. In practice, on this family of vehicles the front subframe is often lowered together with the control arms. Before removing it, mark the position of the subframe with a marker and disconnect the steering rack and the sway bar. If the subframe is being lowered, always support it with a jack before undoing the mounting bolts. After reassembly, align the subframe to the marks.
  10. Remove any exhaust components that interfere with removal: the downpipe, and the particulate filter components or heat shields if they are near the transmission. Take care with the flexible section of the pipe and do not bend it.
  11. Secure the engine from above with a support bar or fixture and take the load off the left mount so the engine does not sink. This step is mandatory: the left transmission mount must not be removed without supporting the engine.
  12. Position the transmission jack under the transmission and secure the transmission with a strap. Remove the bolts of the left mount (transmission bracket), then the bolts joining the transmission to the engine (usually several bolts of different lengths; remember the location of each).
  13. Carefully move the transmission away from the engine along the input shaft. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft until it is completely clear of the clutch disc. Lower the transmission and take it out from under the vehicle.
  14. While the transmission is out, inspect the clutch, the flywheel (on the 1.6 dCi it is often a dual-mass type), the release bearing, and the crankshaft seal. Replace the whole clutch kit if wear is close to the limit. Apply a thin layer of special spline grease to the input shaft splines. Do not overdo it, so that no grease gets onto the disc.
  15. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the transmission with the dowel sleeves. If the splines do not engage right away, turn the shaft slightly. Pull the transmission in with the bolts evenly. Do not force the transmission together with the bolts if it is not seating flush.
  16. Tighten all fasteners to the manufacturer's specified torque: the transmission housing to engine bolts, the transmission mounts, the hub and ball joint nuts, the subframe, and the wheel bolts. Replace single-use bolts (subframe, hub nuts, where applicable) with new ones. Tighten the wheel bolts with a torque wrench.
  17. Connect the cables and check that the gears engage cleanly. Connect the connectors, the starter, the air intake, and the battery.
  18. Fill the transmission with fluid up to the lower edge of the fill hole (quantity and type per the manufacturer's specification). If the clutch hydraulics were opened, bleed them until all air is gone.
  19. Test start: check clutch operation with the vehicle stationary, then engage all gears in turn. Take a short drive, then check the fluid level and look for leaks at the driveshaft seals and along the transmission joint. After 50-100 km, re-tighten the wheels.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is difficult and potentially dangerous work. The vehicle is heavy, and the engine and subframe must be securely supported at every stage. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. If you have no experience working with a subframe and clutch, or do not have the necessary lift, leave the job to a repair shop. After any work on the steering and suspension, be sure to have a wheel alignment done.