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Autopapyrus · Peugeot 4007 2.4 (4B12) (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/peugeot/4007/evap-purge-valve-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Peugeot 4007 2.4 (4B12) (2011): EVAP Purge Valve Replacement

The EVAP purge valve is opened by the engine control unit and feeds gasoline vapors from the charcoal canister into the intake. If it sticks open, you may get an unstable idle and hard starting after refueling. If it sticks closed, you get a fuel smell, a hissing sound when you open the fuel cap, and EVAP system trouble codes. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in public sources, so what follows is the general principle. Check the valve location on your vehicle visually.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 20-40 minutes Steps: 13 Tools: Screwdriver or 10 mm socket for the bracket mounting, pliers for hose clamps and retaining clips, a container and rags, diagnostic scan tool (for clearing codes and verification)

Part

  • 🔩 EVAP purge valve (fuel vapor recovery solenoid valve, EVAP purge solenoid valve) for the 2.4 4B12, OE Mitsubishi/Peugeot or aftermarket equivalent. When replacing it, check the O-rings and the condition of the supply hoses
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Turn off the engine, let it cool down, and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. The key must be removed from the ignition.
  2. Open the fuel filler cap and release any residual pressure in the tank. This keeps vapors from escaping when you disconnect the hoses.
  3. Remove the decorative plastic engine cover if it blocks access.
  4. Locate the valve. It is a small plastic cylinder with a two-pin electrical connector and two hoses. One hose goes to the intake system (the manifold or the intake pipe), the other goes to the canister. If you can't see the valve, trace the hose from the intake.
  5. Take a photo of the hose and connector positions. The hoses are usually not interchangeable in direction.
  6. Press the connector's locking tab and disconnect it. Do not pull on the wires.
  7. Remove the hoses: press the quick-release retainers or slide the clamps back with pliers. Old hoses break easily, so work carefully, and place a rag under the area to catch any residual vapors and condensate.
  8. Pull the valve out of its bracket or unscrew its mount. This is usually a single bolt or a snap clip.
  9. To test it, apply 12 V to the valve for a couple of seconds. It should click. Coil resistance is usually about 20-40 ohms (confirm with reference data). A de-energized valve should be closed, meaning you should not be able to blow air through it by mouth.
  10. Install the new valve in the same position and secure it. Tighten lightly, about 5-10 N·m (4-7 lb-ft), without overtightening the plastic bracket.
  11. Push the hoses on all the way, install the retainers, and plug in the connector.
  12. Inspect the hoses from the canister to the valve for cracks. A cracked hose will leave the fault code set even after the valve is replaced.
  13. Reconnect the battery and clear the codes with the scan tool. Start the engine and check that the idle is smooth and there is no fuel smell. Then take a short drive so the EVAP system can run its self-test.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work away from open flames and sparks, because gasoline vapors are flammable. If the code returns after replacement, the cause may be the canister itself, the tank vent valve, the filler cap, or cracked hoses. Diagnose the system with a smoke machine or a scan tool. If you lack experience, leave the diagnosis to a repair shop.