Autopapyrus · Skoda Yeti (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/skoda/yeti/left-engine-mount-transmission-mount-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Skoda Yeti (1st Generation): Left Engine Mount (Transmission Mount) Replacement

The left (driver's side in left-hand-drive markets, i.e. left when facing forward in the direction of travel) mount on the Yeti's transverse-mounted engine supports the transmission. Signs of wear: a clunk when pulling away and when lifting off the throttle, vibration in the steering wheel and body, transmission shifting position, and cracks or leaking fluid on the hydraulic mount. The job requires securely supporting the powertrain while the mount is removed.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours Steps: 9 Tools: Floor jack or transmission support with a wooden block, socket set and ratchet, Torx and hex (Allen) sockets (depending on trim/version), torque wrench, pry bar, soft-face mallet, small container for bolts

Part

🔩 Left engine mount (complete transmission mount assembly, hydraulic mount). For the 1.8 TSI, mounts with a manual transmission and with DSG may differ, so match the part to your transmission type. A new set of mount bolts is best bought up front if they are single-use

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

9 steps

Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal (write down the radio code if needed).
Remove the battery and its tray, along with any nearby parts that block access: the plastic cover and, if necessary, the air intake duct or air filter housing. Move the wiring harnesses and the fuse box on the tray aside without disconnecting anything unnecessary.
Position the jack with a wooden block under the transmission case (not under the engine oil pan if it is thin aluminum; support the transmission housing through a wide spacer) and raise the powertrain slightly to take the load off the mount. Do not lift higher than necessary, to avoid stretching hoses, harnesses, and cables.
Remove the bolts that secure the mount bracket to the body (upper section), and the bolts or nut that secure the mount to the bracket on the transmission. The number and size of fasteners depend on the version, so remove them as you find them, noting their positions.
Lift the mount out together with its bracket if it comes as one assembly. If it is a tight fit, pry it loose with a pry bar without damaging the threads, and do not put pressure on the hoses.
Compare the new mount with the old one for mounting points and shape. Clean the mounting surfaces and threaded holes of dirt and rust, and check the bracket for cracks.
Install the new mount and thread in all the bolts by hand, without tightening. Lower or slightly adjust the jack so the powertrain settles without being skewed, and only then tighten the fasteners in the recommended sequence. Torque values depend on the bolt; for fasteners of this type the range is roughly 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) for the bolts to the body and 60-90 N·m (44-66 lb-ft) for the bolts to the transmission bracket (use the values from the manufacturer's service manual; replace single-use bolts and torque-angle bolts with new ones).
Remove the jack, then reinstall the battery tray, harnesses, air intake duct, and battery, and connect the terminal.
Start the engine and, at idle and while shifting gears, check for vibration, knocking, and any contact between the transmission and the body. Take a test drive, including pulling away and lifting off the throttle.

Common mistakes and warnings

Never unbolt the mount without securely supporting the transmission: the powertrain can shift and damage hoses, harnesses, and transmission cables. Work only on stable jack stands or a lift. If you have no experience supporting a powertrain, take the car to a repair shop. After replacing the left mount, check the condition of the other mounts (right and rear), since wear on one mount usually speeds up wear on the others.