← G01
Autopapyrus · SWM G01 1.5T (156 hp) (2025)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/swm/g01/rear-crankshaft-seal-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

SWM G01 1.5T (156 hp) (2025): Rear Crankshaft Seal Replacement

The rear crankshaft seal is located between the engine and the transmission, behind the flywheel. Replacing it requires removing the entire transmission (the 7DCT dual-clutch automated gearbox on the G01), then removing the clutch and flywheel. This is a labor-intensive job that calls for experience and plenty of room under the vehicle.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours Steps: 31 Tools: lift or inspection pit, socket set with extensions, open-end and box-end wrench set 10-19 mm, torque wrench, flywheel holder or crankshaft locking tool, seal installation driver (suitable diameter), flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, hammer, floor jack with support stands

Part

  • 🔩 rear crankshaft seal (confirm the part number with your SWM supplier for the SWD15T engine). Also: oil pan gasket (if needed for access), flywheel bolts (single-use, check the service manual)

Step by step

31 steps
  1. Position the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit, secure it with the parking brake, and place wheel chocks.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  3. Remove the engine and transmission undercover (if fitted) by unscrewing its mounting bolts.
  4. Drain the transmission oil into a container prepared in advance.
  5. Disconnect from the transmission the shift selector cables (on automated DCT units, the electrical connectors of the actuators), the speed sensors, and any other electrical connections. Label the connectors for correct reassembly.
  6. Remove the bolts securing the left and right driveshafts to the transmission flanges, move the shafts aside, and secure them with wire or zip ties (do not let them hang from the CV joints).
  7. Unbolt the starter (usually 2-3 bolts) and move it aside or remove it completely.
  8. Support the engine with a jack under the oil pan, using a wooden block as a pad (do not deform the oil pan).
  9. Remove the bolts securing the rear engine mount and the transmission mounts (usually 4-6 bolts per side, plus the bolts to the body).
  10. Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine block (usually around the perimeter of the bellhousing, 6-8 M10 or M12 bolts). Check for hidden bolts at the top and bottom.
  11. Carefully pull the transmission straight back (perpendicular to the crankshaft axis) so the input shaft slides out of the clutch. Lower the transmission to the floor or roll it out from under the vehicle with a helper.
  12. Remove the clutch pressure plate and disc (usually 6 bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel; loosen them gradually in a crisscross pattern). Inspect the clutch. If the mileage is high, replace the whole kit.
  13. Lock the crankshaft (insert a locking tool into the flywheel ring gear teeth or use a special flywheel holder). Remove the flywheel bolts (usually 6-8 bolts). The tightening torque on assembly is 50-70 N·m (37-52 lb-ft) plus an additional 90-degree angle turn (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual). If the bolts are single-use (with serrations under the head), replace them with new ones.
  14. Remove the flywheel. If it is stuck tight, pry evenly around the perimeter with flat-head screwdrivers through the inspection openings (do not damage the centering shoulder).
  15. Inspect the rear crankshaft flange and the seal seat. Pry out the old seal with a flat-head screwdriver or an awl by its inner edge, and work it out with circular movements. Do not scratch the seal bore in the block or the crankshaft journal.
  16. Thoroughly clean the seat of any rubber residue and baked-on oil deposits using a dry, lint-free rag. Do not use abrasive materials (sandpaper, wire brushes). They will damage the crankshaft surface, causing the new seal to leak.
  17. Inspect the crankshaft journal for scoring and grooves left by the old seal. Light wear can be smoothed with fine, non-abrasive polishing paste. Deep grooves will require replacing the crankshaft or installing a repair seal with an increased diameter.
  18. Lubricate the working lip of the new seal with clean engine oil. Place the seal on a driver of suitable diameter (slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the seal).
  19. Install the seal into the seat exactly perpendicular to the crankshaft axis, with the working lip facing inward (toward the engine). Using light hammer taps on the driver, press the seal in until it stops (aim for flush with the face of the block or housing, depending on the design). Do not let it cock sideways.
  20. Install the flywheel, aligning the dowel pins or marks (if present). Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the bolt threads (if specified by the manufacturer). Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in several stages with a torque wrench (initially 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft), then finally 50-70 N·m (37-52 lb-ft) plus an additional 90-degree turn; confirm the exact value in the service manual).
  21. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Center the disc relative to the flywheel with a clutch alignment tool (or an old input shaft). Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern to 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft) (confirm in the service manual).
  22. Clean the mating surfaces of the engine block and the transmission housing of old sealant (if used). Apply a thin layer of new sealant around the perimeter (if specified by the design).
  23. Raise the transmission with a jack or with a helper and align the input shaft with the splines of the clutch disc. Carefully slide the transmission onto the dowel pins and install the mounting bolts, tightening them in a crisscross pattern. The tightening torque for the transmission-to-block bolts is 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) (confirm in the service manual).
  24. Install the engine and transmission mounts and tighten the bolts to 50-80 N·m (37-59 lb-ft) (depending on the mount type).
  25. Install the starter and tighten the bolts to 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft).
  26. Connect the driveshafts to the transmission flanges and tighten the bolts to 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft) (use new bolts or threadlocker).
  27. Reconnect all electrical connectors for the actuators and sensors, and the selector cables (check against your labels).
  28. Fill the transmission with gear oil through the fill port (the 7DCT capacity is about 1.8-2.2 L (1.9-2.3 qt); confirm in the service manual). Use oil that meets the manufacturer's specification (usually DCT fluid or an equivalent).
  29. Install the engine undercover.
  30. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for oil leaks around the new seal. Warm up the engine and check the transmission in all gears (shifts should be smooth, without jerking).
  31. Drive 10-15 km (6-9 miles), then inspect the work areas again for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job requires considerable experience and special tools. Mistakes during seal installation (cocking it sideways, scratching the crankshaft journal) will lead to a quick oil leak and a repeat repair. If you have no experience removing automated DCT units and working with a dual-mass flywheel, we strongly recommend taking the vehicle to a repair shop. Incorrectly tightened flywheel bolts can shear off and destroy the transmission. Use only a torque wrench for all critical fasteners.
How it works · 3D How a Car Engine Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →