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Autopapyrus · Toyota Vitz (XP150)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/vitz-platz/wheel-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Vitz (XP150): Wheel Replacement

Replacing the wheels on a Vitz XP150 does not require disassembling the suspension: you remove the wheel, move the tire to the new wheel (or install a ready-made set), and then put the wheel back on the hub. Key specifications: 4x100 bolt pattern, 54.1 mm center bore, M12x1.5 lug nut thread, tightening torque of about 103 N·m (76 lb-ft).

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes (all four wheels) Steps: 12 Tools: jack (factory or floor jack), lug wrench or 21 mm socket (check the size for your lug nuts), torque wrench, wheel chocks, wire brush, copper anti-seize grease for the hub mating surface, chalk or marker

Part

  • 🔩 Wheels 4x100, center bore 54.1 mm, fasteners M12x1.5 lug nuts. Factory sizes: 5Jx14 ET39 or 5.5Jx15 ET45. When installing wheels with a larger center bore, 54.1 mm hub-centric rings are required

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on a level, hard surface, put it in first gear or P, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the wheels on the opposite axle.
  2. Remove the wheel cover (if fitted) and loosen the lug nuts by half a turn while the wheel is still on the ground.
  3. Place the jack under the factory jacking point on the rocker panel (marked by a notch in the sill) and raise that corner until the wheel is off the ground.
  4. Remove the lug nuts completely while supporting the wheel, then take it off the hub.
  5. If the wheel is stuck, tap the back side of the tire with a rubber mallet. Do not strike the wheel or the brake rotor.
  6. If you are replacing the wheel but keeping the tire: deflate the tire, break the bead from the rim, move the tire to the new wheel, and balance it. This is done on a tire changing machine and is not recommended at home. Move the tire pressure sensors (if fitted) to the new wheel.
  7. Clean the hub mating surface and the brake rotor surface with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt. Apply a thin layer of copper anti-seize grease to the hub pilot so the alloy wheel does not seize. Do not lubricate the lug nut threads.
  8. Place the wheel on the hub, lining up the holes. Make sure the wheel seats fully on the hub pilot.
  9. Thread the lug nuts on by hand in a crisscross pattern (tapered side toward the wheel for factory tapered nuts; for alloy wheels with a different seat type, use the correct type of nuts).
  10. Snug the nuts lightly in a crisscross pattern, lower the car to the ground, and tighten with a torque wrench to about 103 N·m (76 lb-ft), again in a crisscross pattern.
  11. Repeat on the remaining wheels. If the new wheels have different dimensions, check that the wheel does not rub the brake caliper, strut, or fender well at full steering lock.
  12. Check the tire pressure against the placard on the door pillar. After 50-100 km (30-60 miles) of driving, retighten the lug nuts to the same torque.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Wheels are a safety-critical component: loose lug nuts can cause the wheel to come off while driving. Do not use wheels with cracks, severe deformation, or the wrong bolt pattern. When changing wheel and tire size, keep the overall outer diameter of the wheel the same, otherwise the speedometer reading will be inaccurate. If you have no experience mounting tires, leave tire changing and balancing to a tire shop.