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Autopapyrus · UAZ Patriot (1st generation, 2012) 2.7 ZMZ-409
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/uaz/patriot/fuse-and-relay-boxes/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

UAZ Patriot (1st generation, 2012) 2.7 ZMZ-409: Fuse and Relay Boxes

On the first-generation Patriot, most of the switching is handled by a main fuse/relay block inside the cabin, plus separate relays and fuses under the hood. The exact slot layout changed between series and model years, so the steps below describe the general arrangement and circuit logic. Always verify each specific slot against the label on the cover of your own block.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 15-30 minutes Steps: 10 Tools: None required (flashlight, fuse puller, multimeter or test light for checking)

Parts

2
  • 🔩 Automotive blade-type fuses (standard and mini) rated 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 A
  • 🔩 12 V automotive relays (4- and 5-pin)

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Cabin fuse/relay block. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver's left, near the steering column and knee area, behind a plastic cover. Most fuses for cabin and body loads are here: lighting, turn signals and hazard lights, windshield wipers and washer, cigarette lighter, heater blower, heated glass, horn, radio, instrument cluster.
  2. Under-hood relays and fuses. The main power components for the engine and lighting are in the engine compartment: relays and fuses for the engine management system (fuel pump, main ECU relay, injectors and ignition coils), headlight and fog light relays, horn relay, cooling fan relay, and the A/C compressor relay (if equipped). On the electronically fuel-injected ZMZ-409, the power supply circuits for the ECU and fuel pump are protected by their own fuses and relays.
  3. How to read the markings. A diagram showing ratings and circuit symbols is printed on the inside of the block cover. Use that diagram, since the slot layout may differ between series. Do not rely on a diagram from a different year or trim level.
  4. Fuse ratings and colors. Standard blade fuse color coding: 5 A tan, 7.5 A brown, 10 A red, 15 A blue, 20 A yellow, 25 A clear (colorless), 30 A green. Install only the same rating that was in the slot.
  5. Checking a fuse. Pull it with a fuse puller and hold it up to the light: a blown element is visible. Test a doubtful fuse with a multimeter in continuity mode, or replace it with a known good one.
  6. Checking a relay. Turn on the corresponding circuit and listen for the relay click. If there is no click, swap it with an identical relay from another circuit (for example, the horn relay and the headlight relay) and see whether the load starts working. Check for voltage at terminals 30 and 87 with a multimeter.
  7. Typical causes of failure. Oxidized contacts in the block slots and burnt terminals, moisture under the dash and in the engine compartment, and DIY connections (accessories, amplifiers, winch, extra lights) wired directly into the block. If a slot is burnt, the block is often repaired by replacing the terminals or by soldering, and the whole block is replaced only as a last resort.
  8. Ground points. Battery negative terminal to body, engine ground to body, and the grounds on the left inner fender and near the left pillar by the instrument panel. For unexplained faults (flickering gauges, lights cutting out, erratic ECU operation), first check and clean the ground connections.
  9. Diagnostic connector. The scan tool connector is located in the cabin under the instrument panel on the left. The engine ECU uses K-line diagnostics, and trouble codes are read through this connector.
  10. Work procedure. Before replacing fuses and relays, turn the ignition off and, if possible, disconnect the battery negative terminal. Replace one component at a time, and check the circuit after each replacement.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Never install a fuse with a higher rating, and never use a jumper wire in place of a fuse: the wiring can overheat and catch fire. If a fuse blows again, look for the cause (short circuit, chafed wiring, faulty load), and if you lack electrical experience, take the vehicle to a repair shop. Always verify the exact function of each slot against the label on the cover of your own block: on specific 2012 and later series, the layout may differ.