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Autopapyrus · UAZ Profi (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/uaz/profi/rear-left-brake-caliper-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

UAZ Profi (1st generation): Rear Left Brake Caliper Replacement

Replace the caliper if the piston or guide pins are seized, it leaks fluid, the dust boot is torn, or the bleeder screw thread is stripped. The exact rear brake design depends on the trim level: many Profi vehicles have rear drum brakes with a wheel cylinder, and a caliper is found only on versions with rear discs. The instructions below describe a floating caliper on a rear disc brake. Exact torque specifications for this model were not found in public sources, so they are given as ranges.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 14 Tools: Jack and jack stands, lug wrench, socket and wrench set (for caliper bolts and bleeder screw, usually 13-17 mm), torque wrench, syringe or turkey baster for removing brake fluid, clear hose and container for bleeding, wire for hanging the caliper, wire brush, copper grease for the guide pins

Part

  • 🔩 Rear left brake caliper assembly (with or without the bracket, check against the old one). Replacing the brake pad set for the axle and fresh DOT 4 brake fluid is recommended

Step by step

14 steps
  1. First, determine what is installed on the rear left wheel. If there is a drum behind the wheel with no caliper bracket, this vehicle has no caliper. In that case you would be replacing the wheel cylinder and the brake shoes, and these instructions do not apply. If there is a disc with a caliper, continue.
  2. Park the vehicle on level ground, chock the front wheels, and loosen the rear left wheel lug nuts. Raise the rear of the vehicle and set it on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Release the parking brake, otherwise the pads cannot be removed.
  3. Clean the caliper, the bleeder screw, and the brake hose or line connection with a wire brush. Use a syringe to remove some of the fluid from the reservoir so it does not spill out when you disconnect the hose.
  4. If the caliper has a parking brake actuator, disconnect the cable from the lever and remove it from the bracket. Note the position of the lever.
  5. Unscrew the banjo bolt that secures the brake hose to the caliper. Place a container underneath and immediately plug the hose or cover it with a bag. Discard the copper washers under the bolt and install new ones.
  6. Remove the two caliper guide bolts. Lift the caliper off the bracket. Remove the pads and inspect the disc: if it has deep grooves, a lip on the edge, or is thinner than the minimum thickness, the disc also needs to be replaced.
  7. If the caliper bracket is a separate part and the new caliper comes without it, remove the old bracket from the steering knuckle. After installation, tighten it to the manufacturer's specification.
  8. Compare the new caliper with the old one: the position of the bleeder screw, the mounting lugs, and the parking brake actuator. The left and right calipers are not interchangeable. The bleeder screw must be at the top.
  9. Retract the piston of the new caliper if it is not fully retracted. On calipers with a parking brake mechanism, the piston is screwed in with a special tool rather than pressed in. Do not jam or damage the dust boot.
  10. Lubricate the guide pins with high-temperature grease. Install the pads in the bracket and apply a little grease to where they slide, but not to the friction surface. Place the caliper over the disc and tighten the guide bolts. Approximate torque is 25-40 N·m (18-30 lb-ft); use the exact value from the manufacturer's specification.
  11. Connect the brake hose using new copper washers. The hose must not be twisted. Tighten the banjo bolt, approximately 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft). Connect the parking brake cable and check its travel.
  12. Top up the brake fluid to the correct level and bleed the rear left circuit. Open the bleeder screw, let the fluid flow out without bubbles, then close it. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If the system has ABS, bleed it using the normal procedure; if air remains, a diagnostic scan tool will be needed. It is best to bleed the brakes with a helper.
  13. Install the wheel, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, lower the vehicle, and finish tightening the nuts with a torque wrench. Use the specified torque for this model's wheels, usually in the range of 90-120 N·m (66-89 lb-ft).
  14. Press the brake pedal 5-10 times until it feels firm. Check for leaks at the fitting and hose. Adjust the parking brake travel. Take a test drive at low speed and check braking performance and disc temperature.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is critical to safety. If you have no experience working on brakes, have a repair shop do the replacement and bleeding. After the work, always check the pedal: it must not sink to the floor. Do not drive the vehicle if the pedal feels soft or there is a leak. Keep brake fluid off the paint and rubber parts.
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