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Autopapyrus · Volkswagen Touran 2.0 TDI BKD (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/touran/cylinder-head-removal/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volkswagen Touran 2.0 TDI BKD (2008): Cylinder Head Removal

Removing the cylinder head on the BKD engine (2.0 TDI 16v with unit injectors) is a difficult job. It requires removing the timing belt, camshaft, high-pressure fuel pump, turbocharger, and the intake and exhaust manifolds. Early-production BKD engines are prone to cylinder head cracks because of design features, and the manufacturer later released a reinforced head. The job requires exact cylinder head bolt tightening (4 stages with angle tightening) and correct timing mark alignment.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours Steps: 25 Tools: Socket and wrench set (8-22 mm), torque wrench (up to 100 N·m), camshaft puller, crankshaft and camshaft locking tools, camshaft gear puller, flat/Phillips screwdrivers, hex keys, pry bar, coolant drain pan (8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt)), engine oil drain pan (5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt))

Part

  • 🔩 Complete cylinder head 03G103351B (OE VW/Audi, fits BKD/AZV/BMN/BUY/BVF/BRD). Cylinder head bolts (must be replaced, set of 10). Cylinder head gasket. Valve cover gasket. Unit injector O-rings (4 pcs). G12+ coolant (8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt)). 5W-30 engine oil (5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt)). Oil filter
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

25 steps
  1. Drain the coolant through the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, and drain the engine oil through the oil pan (put the car on a lift or over a pit).
  2. Remove the upper plastic engine cover, the air filter, and the air duct to the turbocharger.
  3. Disconnect all electrical connectors: coolant temperature sensor, camshaft position sensor, EGR valve, and unit injector connectors (mark the connection order).
  4. Remove the intake manifold (4 mounting bolts to the cylinder head; disconnect the coolant hoses and vacuum lines).
  5. Remove the exhaust manifold (6 M8 nuts, installation torque 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)) and disconnect the turbocharger from the manifold (3 M10 nuts). Remove the turbocharger oil return pipe from the cylinder block.
  6. Remove the timing belt: set the crankshaft to TDC of cylinder 1 using the mark on the flywheel (view it through the inspection window on the transmission housing), and lock the crankshaft with the locking pin (it threads into the cylinder block on the right side). Lock the camshaft with the locking tool through the hole in the rear timing cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner (13 mm nut) and take the timing belt off the gears.
  7. Remove the camshaft gear (center bolt torque 100 N·m (74 lb-ft) + hold the camshaft against rotation). Remove the high-pressure fuel pump gear (center bolt 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)).
  8. Remove the valve cover (10 mm bolts around the perimeter, 16 total, installation torque 10 N·m (7 lb-ft)).
  9. Remove the high-pressure fuel pump: disconnect the high-pressure fuel lines from the pump and the unit injectors (17 mm wrench, installation torque 30 N·m (22 lb-ft)). Remove the 3 bolts securing the pump to the cylinder head. Remove the pump (note: do not lose the injection timing adjustment shims under the pump flange).
  10. Release the camshaft: remove the camshaft bearing housing (10 bolts, 8 mm, loosen them evenly in several passes from the center outward, installation torque 8 N·m (71 lb-in) + 90° turn). Lift the camshaft out of the head.
  11. Remove the valve lifters (16 pcs) and lay them out in strict order (mark the cylinder numbers and positions: intake/exhaust). The lifters must be reinstalled in their original positions.
  12. Unbolt the 4 unit injectors (2 bolts each, 8 mm wrench). Pull the unit injectors out of their bores in the cylinder head (new copper sealing washers under the injectors are required on installation).
  13. Disconnect all remaining coolant hoses from the cylinder head (thermostat, coolant inlet flange, heater hose).
  14. Remove the timing belt tensioner mounting stud (threaded into the front of the cylinder head). If it is not removed, the head will not lift off.
  15. Remove the 10 bolts securing the cylinder head to the cylinder block (Torx T55 or 12 mm 12-point socket; loosen evenly from the center outward, in the reverse of the tightening order). The cylinder head bolts are single-use and must never be reused.
  16. Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up (weight about 30-35 kg, get a helper). Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block.
  17. Clean the cylinder block mating surface of any old gasket residue (use a plastic or wooden scraper, and do not damage the surface). Clean and blow out the cylinder head bolt holes in the block (compressor or syringe), then wipe them dry with a clean rag.
  18. Check the cylinder head mating surface for cracks and warpage (straightedge and feeler gauge; maximum allowable deviation 0.05 mm over 1000 mm). If the head has cracks (especially between the valves or around the unit injectors), replace it.
  19. To install the head: place a new head gasket on the block (align it using the dowel sleeves) and set the head on the block. Thread in the new head bolts, lubricating the threads with engine oil. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench in 4 stages, strictly in order from the center outward: Stage 1 - 40 N·m (30 lb-ft), Stage 2 - 60 N·m (44 lb-ft), Stage 3 - turn 90° (1/4 turn), Stage 4 - turn 90° (1/4 turn). After Stage 1, go over the bolts again (the first 4-5 bolts usually turn a little further).
  20. Install the unit injectors with new copper sealing washers (injector bolt torque 8 N·m (71 lb-in) + 90° turn). Install the valve lifters in their original positions. Install the camshaft (lubricate the journals with oil), then install the bearing housing (torque 8 N·m (71 lb-in) + 90°, tighten evenly from the center outward).
  21. Install the high-pressure fuel pump on the cylinder head (torque of the 3 mounting bolts 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)) and connect the fuel lines (fitting torque 30 N·m (22 lb-ft)). Note: when installing the pump, observe the injection timing. It is set by the thickness of the shims under the pump flange and by turning the pump gear center bolt within its slots (after assembly, the injection timing must be checked on a test bench or with a diagnostic tool).
  22. Install the high-pressure fuel pump gear (center bolt torque 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)) and the camshaft gear (center bolt torque 100 N·m (74 lb-ft) + hold the camshaft against rotation). Check the timing marks: crankshaft at TDC of cylinder 1, camshaft with the first two lobes (cylinder 1) pointing up. Install the timing belt and tension it with the tensioner (tension check: the belt on the free span between the camshaft gear and the fuel pump gear should twist 90° ± 5° under a force of 2 kg).
  23. Turn the crankshaft by hand through 2 full revolutions and check that the timing marks line up. If the marks do not match, remove the belt and repeat the installation.
  24. Install the valve cover with a new gasket (bolt torque 10 N·m (7 lb-ft), tighten in a crisscross pattern). Install the intake and exhaust manifolds and the turbocharger (exhaust manifold nut torque 25 N·m (18 lb-ft)). Reconnect all electrical connectors and coolant hoses.
  25. Fill with engine oil (capacity 5.0 L (5.3 qt) including the filter) and coolant (8.5 L (9.0 qt) for the entire cooling system). Bleed the cooling system: start the engine, warm it up until the thermostat opens, and top off the coolant to the proper level. Check for oil and coolant leaks, and check that the engine runs properly at idle.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The cylinder head bolts are single-use. Reusing them will cause a loss of sealing and engine overheating. Failing to follow the tightening torque and bolt sequence will warp the head or blow the gasket. A mistake in setting the timing marks will cause the pistons to hit the valves and destroy the engine, so after installing the belt, always turn the crankshaft by hand through 2 revolutions and check the marks. Installing the high-pressure fuel pump requires precise injection timing adjustment, and a check on a diagnostic bench is recommended after assembly. Early-production BKD engines are prone to cylinder head cracks due to high thermal loads. If cracks are found, the head must be replaced (weld repair does not guarantee durability). If you have no experience with diesel engines with unit injectors and high-pressure systems, take the car to a specialist repair shop.