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BMW X6 E71 3.0 Turbo N55 (2012): Catalytic Converter Replacement

The BMW X6 E71 with the N55 3.0 Turbo engine has catalytic converters built into the exhaust system after the turbocharger. A typical cause of failure is oil leaking from the valve cover or the oil filter housing. The oil gets onto the exhaust and destroys the ceramic substrate of the catalytic converter. The main symptom is trouble code P0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold). Before replacement, be sure to diagnose the oxygen sensors (lambda sensors). Code P0420 is set based on the signal from the downstream sensor, so a faulty sensor can give a false reading.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-6 hours Steps: 19 Tools: lift or inspection pit, socket set and extensions, flex-head ratchet, 13 mm and 17 mm wrenches, torque wrench, penetrating oil (WD-40), new mounting nuts, anti-seize paste for threads

Part

  • 🔩 BMW OEM catalytic converter (aftermarket alternatives: Walker, Magnaflow, universal with adapters). Turbocharger-to-downpipe gasket BMW 18307553601. M8 flange mounting nuts (set of 6)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more. See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift or place it over an inspection pit with secure supports. Let the exhaust system cool completely (at least 2 hours after driving). Trying to remove a hot downpipe will cause damage because of thermal expansion.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, unplug the oxygen sensor connectors (upstream and downstream of the catalytic converter), and secure the wires out of the way.
  3. Treat all flange mounting nuts with penetrating oil (WD-40) and let it soak into the threads for 15-20 minutes.
  4. Remove the underbody shield (if fitted) by removing the plastic clips and mounting bolts.
  5. Remove the nuts that secure the downpipe to the turbocharger (upper flange, 6 M8 nuts). Use a flex-head ratchet with a 13 mm socket. Access is limited, and for most of the nuts you will have to work blind from below. The nuts are arranged in a circle around the flange. If the nuts are seized, use a propane torch to heat them (be careful not to damage the wires and rubber parts nearby).
  6. Remove the nuts or bolts of the middle flange (catalytic converter to the mid-section of the exhaust). The number and size of the fasteners depend on the specific exhaust configuration, usually 3-4 17 mm nuts.
  7. Remove the rubber exhaust hangers (2-3 mounting points along the length of the downpipe and catalytic converter). Use a pry bar or lever to release the rubber loops.
  8. Carefully lower the catalytic converter assembly out from the engine bay area. It weighs about 8-12 kg (18-26 lb), so it is easier to work with a helper. Do not use excessive force. If the assembly does not come free, recheck all the mounting points.
  9. Unscrew the oxygen sensors from the old catalytic converter with a 22 mm wrench (a special oxygen sensor socket with a slot for the wire). If the sensors are new or in good condition, reuse them. If they are old, replace them.
  10. Clean the turbocharger flange and the mid-section exhaust flange of old gasket material with a wire brush. Check the flatness of the flanges. If there is any warping or cracking, the flange needs to be replaced or resurfaced.
  11. Install a new gasket on the turbocharger flange (BMW 18307553601 or equivalent). Apply a thin layer of anti-seize paste to the threads of the new mounting nuts.
  12. Install the new catalytic converter, aligning the flanges. Screw the oxygen sensors into the new catalytic converter to 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft) (unless a specific torque is marked on the sensor body).
  13. Thread on all the turbocharger-to-downpipe flange nuts by hand without tightening them. Make sure the flange sits evenly, without misalignment.
  14. Tighten the turbocharger-to-downpipe flange nuts with a torque wrench in a crisscross pattern (alternating between opposite nuts) in two stages: first a preliminary torque of 8 N·m (6 lb-ft) (all 6 nuts around the circle), then the final torque of 13 N·m (10 lb-ft) (all 6 nuts in the same sequence). This is critical to prevent deformation of the ceramic core of the catalytic converter and to ensure a proper seal.
  15. Tighten the nuts of the middle flange (catalytic converter to the mid-section of the exhaust) to 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern.
  16. Install the rubber exhaust hangers on the brackets. Check that the exhaust hangs freely, without tension or misalignment.
  17. Connect the oxygen sensor connectors and reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  18. Start the engine and check all the joints for leaks, by ear and visually (no exhaust gas blow-by). If you find leaks, shut off the engine and retighten the affected nuts or check the gaskets.
  19. Clear code P0420 with a diagnostic scan tool. Take a test drive of 20-30 km (12-19 miles) in mixed driving. Then read the trouble codes again. If P0420 has not returned, the replacement was successful. If the code has returned, check the oxygen sensors and look for oil leaking into the exhaust system.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Before replacing the catalytic converter, be sure to fix the root cause of its failure, which is oil leaking from the valve cover or the oil filter housing. Installing a new catalytic converter without fixing the oil leaks will lead to another failure within 5,000-15,000 km (3,000-9,000 miles). Working on the exhaust system with a hot engine risks burns. Use heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses. If you replace the catalytic converter with a resonator or a catless downpipe, the car will not pass an emissions inspection, and the engine control unit will need to be reflashed to disable catalyst monitoring (Stage 1/Stage 2 tune).