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Autopapyrus · Chevrolet Captiva (1st generation, facelift)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/captiva/replacing-the-rear-suspension-arm-bushings/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chevrolet Captiva (1st generation, facelift): Replacing the Rear Suspension Arm Bushings

The Captiva's rear multi-link suspension has several arms, and their bushings wear unevenly. Signs of wear: knocking and instability over bumps, a "floating" rear end, uneven rear tire wear, and alignment (toe) drift. The exact procedure and torque specs for this model are not fully available in public service materials, so the steps below give the general principle with ranges.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-6 hours (for both sides, including pressing and wheel alignment) Steps: 10 Tools: Lift or pit, jack and jack stands, socket and wrench set (approximately 15-21 mm wrenches and 18-24 mm sockets), torque wrench, bushing puller or press (or a clamp with a set of drivers), pry bar, penetrating oil, pliers, marker, rolling floor jack to support the arm.

Part

  • 🔩 Rear suspension arm bushings. They differ by position: upper lateral arm, lower lateral arm, trailing (traction) arm, and the lower arm with the hydro-mount near the hub. Instead of individual bushings, it is often more cost-effective to buy the arm complete with the bushings already pressed in. Aftermarket part numbers you may come across: GM0204R, GM0205R, GM0206R, GM0904R, GM0905R. These are different rear suspension positions, so verify fitment on the car and against your supplier's catalog, since the numbers are not interchangeable
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Determine which arm is making the noise: lift the rear axle, shake the wheel and pry on the arms with a pry bar, and look for cracks and rubber squeezing out. Replace bushings in pairs on both sides for the same arm.
  2. Put the car on a lift or stands and remove the rear wheel. If the car has air suspension or electronic body level sensors, note their position. To avoid twisting the suspension, it is recommended to replace the arms one at a time rather than removing the whole suspension at once.
  3. Before disassembly, apply penetrating oil to all arm bolts, since they often seize badly. Use a marker to mark the position of the eccentric bolts (camber and toe adjustment) so you can return them to the same place.
  4. Support the hub assembly with a rolling floor jack so the suspension does not droop and damage the brake hose and ABS sensor. If necessary, disconnect the lower sway bar link.
  5. Remove the arm bolt on the subframe side and on the steering knuckle side, then remove the arm. If the bolts are seized, apply heat and use an impact tool, but do not heat the rubber nearby.
  6. Press out the old bushings with a puller or press, noting the position and orientation of the bushing (marks on the arm, direction of tabs and cutouts). Clean the seat of rust.
  7. Press in the new bushings using a driver of the correct diameter, applying rubber assembly lubricant to the rubber (not oil or gasoline). The bushing must seat straight and all the way, without tilting.
  8. Install the arm in place and tighten the bolts only lightly. Do the final tightening with the car lowered onto its wheels (or with the suspension loaded so the arms are at their working position), otherwise the rubber will be preloaded in twist and will tear quickly. Approximate arm bolt torque is 80-130 N·m (59-96 lb-ft) for the main fasteners and 40-70 N·m (30-52 lb-ft) for the less loaded ones; use the exact values from the manufacturer's specifications.
  9. Reinstall the sway bar link, sensors and wheel; tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern, approximately 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  10. Take a test drive and check that there are no knocking noises. Be sure to have a wheel alignment done on both axles, since the angles get thrown off after replacing the arms.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The suspension is a safety-critical system: incorrect tightening or a crooked press-in can lead to loss of vehicle control. If you lack experience and a press, it is better to take the car to a repair shop. Always use jack stands; a jack is not a reliable support. Do the final tightening only with the vehicle's weight on the suspension.
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