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Autopapyrus · Ford C-Max (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/c-max/cooling-system-hose-and-clamp-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford C-Max (1st generation): Cooling System Hose and Clamp Replacement

Replacing the cooling system hoses on a 1st-generation Ford C-Max with the 2.0 Duratec HE engine is required when they swell, crack, or leak. Typical problem areas are the upper radiator hose (rubs against the air filter housing), the heater hoses with plastic clips, and the expansion tank hoses. The job requires draining the coolant completely and bleeding air from the system afterward.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-4 hours Steps: 19 Tools: wrench set, pliers, flat-head screwdriver, coolant drain pan (5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt)), funnel, jack or lift (for access from below)

Part

  • 🔩 Ford C-Max I cooling system hose set (upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, expansion tank hoses), worm-drive hose clamps 35-50 mm and 20-32 mm, coolant 5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt) (meeting specification WSS-M97B44-D or equivalent)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Wait until the engine has cooled completely (at least 2 hours after the last drive). Working on a hot cooling system can cause burns.
  2. Open the hood and remove the expansion tank cap slowly (there may be residual pressure).
  3. Raise the front of the car with a jack or drive it onto a lift to reach the bottom of the radiator.
  4. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain plug (a plastic plug at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side in right-hand-drive markets / the right side in the direction of travel). Unscrew the plug and drain the coolant completely.
  5. Inspect all hoses in the system for cracks, swelling, and chafing. Decide which ones need replacement.
  6. Start with the upper radiator hose: loosen the worm-drive clamps at both ends and remove the hose from the radiator neck and the thermostat housing. If the hose is stuck, twist it gently back and forth rather than pulling with force.
  7. Replace the lower radiator hose the same way: loosen the clamps and remove it from the lower radiator outlet and the engine block.
  8. For the heater hoses (they run into the cabin through the bulkhead), you will need access to the metal tubes on the left side of the engine. Some hoses are secured with plastic quick-release clips: press the tabs on both sides and pull the hose off. If a clip is brittle, work carefully; if it breaks, replace it with a worm-drive clamp.
  9. The expansion tank hoses (upper and lower) are usually thin and reinforced. Remove the clamps and disconnect the hoses from the tank and from the metal engine tubes. Check for restrictor orifices inside the hoses and do not lose them during replacement.
  10. Before installing the new hoses, wipe the radiator, thermostat housing, and metal tube fittings clean of old sealant and dirt. Check the aluminum tubes for corrosion. White deposits or crystalline buildup indicate poor-quality coolant.
  11. Install the new hoses in reverse order. Push each hose onto its fitting all the way, then tighten a new worm-drive clamp so the hose cannot rotate but without excessive force (clamp torque 3-5 N·m (2.2-3.7 lb-ft) for thin hoses, 5-8 N·m (3.7-5.9 lb-ft) for thick hoses). Do not overtighten, as you could damage the hose.
  12. If you are replacing the plastic quick-release clip on the expansion tank with a regular clamp (this improves reliability), cut off the clip, slide the hose on, and secure it with a 20-25 mm worm-drive clamp.
  13. Install the radiator drain plug.
  14. Fill with fresh coolant through the expansion tank up to the MAX mark. Use coolant that meets the manufacturer's specification (usually orange G12+ or G12++; do not mix with green G11).
  15. Start the engine with the expansion tank cap open and warm it up to operating temperature (until the fan switches on). Raise the engine speed to 2500-3000 rpm several times to purge air pockets. You MUST close the expansion tank cap before revving, otherwise coolant will be forced out under pressure.
  16. Watch the level in the tank. As air escapes, the level will drop; top up to MAX.
  17. Warm the engine until the thermostat is fully open (the upper radiator hose becomes hot). Check all connections for leaks.
  18. Shut off the engine, let it cool for 20-30 minutes, and check the level again. Top up if necessary.
  19. After 2-3 days of driving, check the coolant level and clamp tightness again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Never open the cooling system on a hot engine. The pressure inside can reach 1.5 bar (22 psi), and burns are almost certain. Always replace the hose clamps with new ones when replacing hoses, since old ones lose their spring tension. Do not use universal straight hoses in place of molded ones. They deform under temperature and pressure and last 2-3 times shorter. Check that the upper radiator hose does not touch the air filter housing, which is a typical chafing spot. If necessary, install a protective pad or a plastic retaining clip. After replacing the hoses, be sure to bleed the air from the system, otherwise localized engine overheating may occur.
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