Autopapyrus · Ford C-Max 1.8 Duratec HE (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/c-max/clutch-kit-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford C-Max 1.8 Duratec HE (2008): Clutch Kit Replacement

On the C-Max 1.8 the clutch is hydraulically actuated, and the release bearing is operated by a concentric slave cylinder inside the transmission bell housing. To replace the clutch, you must remove the manual transmission. The exact procedure for this model is not fully documented in open sources, so the proven general sequence of work is given below, and torque values are given as ranges.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-8 hours in a garage with a lift or pit; in a repair shop usually 3-5 hours Steps: 14 Tools: lift or pit, transmission jack (or a reliable support stand and a helper), socket and wrench set, Torx and spline bits (E-Torx and internal), torque wrench, clutch disc alignment tool, engine support bar or hanger, transmission fluid drain pan, hose connector release tool, brake fluid for bleeding the hydraulic system, copper grease for splines.

Parts

🔩 clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing) for the 1.8 Duratec HE with the Ford iB5 manual transmission. A kit with the release bearing assembled with the slave cylinder is recommended if it is integrated. Brands: LuK, Sachs, Valeo. Also: transmission input shaft seal, driveshaft (axle) seals, manual transmission fluid (check the volume and specification on the label and in the maintenance schedule). Dual-mass flywheel: check its condition for play
🔩 if worn, it is replaced separately

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps

Raise the car on a lift, in neutral. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the air filter with its housing and any hoses that block access to the transmission, as well as the battery and its tray if they interfere with removing the transmission.
Disconnect the shift and select cables (shifter linkage) from the transmission, the reverse light switch connector, and all electrical connectors on the transmission housing. Mark the positions of the mounts for reassembly.
Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line from the slave cylinder. Plug the line so you don't lose fluid, and do not press the clutch pedal while the line is disconnected.
Remove the engine undercover (skid plate) and drain the transmission fluid (if possible). Remove the front wheels, disconnect the tie rod ends, sway bar links and lower control arms from the steering knuckles. Pull the driveshafts out of the transmission without damaging the seals and joints. Tie them off to the side.
Remove the starter. Support the engine from above with a bracket or support bar, or from below with a jack and a wooden block under the oil pan. Disconnect the transmission mount and any necessary brackets. If the design requires it, lower the subframe following the manufacturer's instructions.
Position a transmission jack under the transmission and support it. Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine, noting their lengths and locations. Carefully pull the transmission back along the axis of the input shaft without putting vertical load on the shaft, then lower it down.
Inspect the flywheel: there should be no signs of overheating, cracks or deep scoring. For a dual-mass flywheel, check the play and damper travel using the manufacturer's procedure. If it is worn, replace the flywheel, otherwise the new clutch will fail quickly.
Remove the pressure plate by loosening the bolts in a crisscross pattern, a little at a time, so the plate doesn't warp. Remove the clutch disc. Check the crankshaft mating surface and the crankshaft seal; if it leaks, replace the seal.
Install the new disc and pressure plate, centering them with the alignment tool. Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern, in stages, to the specified torque (for bolts of this type usually 20-35 N·m (15-26 lb-ft); verify the exact value in the service manual). Apply a minimal amount of grease to the input shaft splines and wipe off any excess.
Replace the release bearing and slave cylinder (on the 1.8 it is usually supplied as one assembly). Install the slave cylinder on the transmission and tighten the fasteners within the values given in the service manual. Replace the input shaft seal if possible.
Reinstall the transmission, bringing it in strictly along the axis and turning the input shaft as needed to engage the splines. Do not let the transmission hang on the shaft. Tighten the transmission-to-engine bolts to specification (usually 35-50 N·m (26-37 lb-ft); verify the value).
Reassemble in reverse order: mounts, driveshafts, control arms, sway bar, tie rod ends, starter, transmission cables, connectors. Tighten critical suspension and steering connections with a torque wrench to specification. Fill the transmission with fluid.
Reconnect the hydraulic line and bleed the clutch system (brake fluid of the correct grade, DOT 4). Check the pedal free play and clutch release with the car stationary.
Start the engine and check that all gears engage, and that there are no noises or leaks. Drive the first 300-500 km (200-300 miles) without hard launches or heavy loads to let the disc bed in.

Common mistakes and warnings

This is a difficult job that involves the steering and suspension: if you lack experience and a lift, leave it to a repair shop. The engine and transmission must be securely supported throughout the job; never stay under an unsupported assembly. Tighten all suspension and tie rod bolts with a torque wrench and check the wheel alignment after reassembly. Do not reuse single-use bolts if the manufacturer requires replacing them.

How it works · 3D How a Manual Transmission Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →