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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi Canter 3.0 D 4M42 (2017)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/canter/clutch-hydraulic-fluid-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi Canter 3.0 D 4M42 (2017): Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Replacement

The Canter clutch hydraulic system consists of a master cylinder on the pedal assembly, a line or hose, and a slave cylinder at the clutch housing. The fluid is hygroscopic, so it is replaced together with the brake fluid, usually every 2 years. The job comes down to pumping the old fluid out of the reservoir and bleeding the system through the slave cylinder bleeder screw. The exact service interval and fluid volume for this trim level are not documented in publicly available service materials, so below is the general procedure that applies to hydraulic clutch systems.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 40-60 minutes Steps: 10 Tools: Lift or inspection pit (or reliable jack stands), box-end wrench for the bleeder screw (usually 8-10 mm), clear hose, drain container, syringe or suction bulb for emptying the reservoir, rags, gloves, brake cleaner. You need a helper on the pedal, or a vacuum or pressure bleeding kit.

Part

  • 🔩 DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid (the grade is printed on the reservoir cap; do not mix different grades and do not use DOT 5). You need about 0.3-0.5 L (0.3-0.5 qt) from a fresh, sealed bottle. Replace the bleeder screw cap separately if it is worn
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Shut off the engine, secure the vehicle with the parking brake and wheel chocks. If you are bleeding from underneath, support the vehicle securely on a lift or jack stands.
  2. Locate the clutch fluid reservoir in the engine compartment (on the Canter, the cab tilts forward). It sits near the firewall and may be shared with the brake system. Wipe the cap and filler neck thoroughly so dirt does not get into the system. Check the fluid grade against the marking on the cap.
  3. Pump the old fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe or bulb until the level is just above the minimum mark. Carefully wipe the sediment off the bottom with a clean rag. Do not let the reservoir run dry: air will enter the line.
  4. Top up with fresh fluid to the MAX mark.
  5. Locate the clutch slave cylinder on the clutch housing and the bleeder screw on it. Clean the bleeder screw and remove the cap. Attach the clear hose and put its other end into a container with a small amount of fresh fluid so the end stays submerged.
  6. Your helper smoothly presses the clutch pedal 3-4 times and holds it down. You open the bleeder screw half a turn to release fluid and air, then close the screw before the pedal reaches the floor and the helper lets it up.
  7. Repeat the cycle until clean, fresh fluid comes out of the hose with no bubbles. Check the reservoir level every 2-3 cycles and top it up. It must not drop below the minimum.
  8. Tighten the bleeder screw carefully without excessive force: it is small and strips easily. Use the torque specified by the manufacturer; as a guideline, such bleeder screws take about 5-10 N·m (4-7 lb-ft). Install the cap and wipe away any leaks.
  9. Top up the fluid to MAX and close the cap tightly. Check the pedal feel: it should be firm, with no sinking and no spongy feel. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding.
  10. With the engine running and the transmission in neutral, press the clutch and shift through all the gears one by one. They should engage cleanly, without grinding and without the clutch dragging. Inspect the slave cylinder, lines and fittings for leaks. A 5-10 minute test drive completes the job.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Brake fluid damages paint and is harmful to skin, so wash off any spills with water immediately. Take old fluid to a recycling point; do not pour it down a drain or onto the ground. If the pedal stays soft after bleeding or leaks appear, the master or slave cylinder seals may be worn and need replacing. If the system is shared with the brakes or you are not confident in your skills, go to a repair shop: brake integrity is critical for safety.
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