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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi Canter VI (FD) (Mitsubishi Fuso Canter FD)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/canter/brake-master-cylinder-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi Canter VI (FD) (Mitsubishi Fuso Canter FD): Brake Master Cylinder Replacement

The master cylinder is mounted on the vacuum booster at the firewall. It is replaced when it leaks fluid, when the fluid level drops with no visible leaks, when the pedal sinks to the floor, or when fluid bypasses internally inside the cylinder. You need to carefully disconnect the lines and reservoir, remove the old cylinder, install the new one, and fully bleed the system. Exact torque specifications for this model could not be found in open sources, so general ranges are given below.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 hours including bleeding Steps: 13 Tools: open-end and box-end wrench set, flare nut (line) wrench for brake lines (to avoid rounding the fittings), socket set, torque wrench, syringe or turkey baster for removing fluid, clear hose and container for bleeding, shop rags, line plugs, jack and jack stands (in case you bleed with the wheels raised), helper

Parts

2
  • 🔩 Complete brake master cylinder (with reservoir, if supplied as part of the kit) for Mitsubishi Fuso Canter FD. The design depends on the brake system of your specific trim, so compare the new cylinder with the old one by bore diameter, number of ports and mounting. Fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid is also recommended
  • 🔩 use strictly the type marked on the reservoir cap
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Shut off the engine and disconnect the negative battery terminal. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times to release the vacuum from the booster.
  2. Gain access to the unit. The cylinder is at the front of the booster, at the firewall. On a cab-over-engine (COE) truck, you usually reach it with the cab tilted, or through the access hatch and trim in the engine compartment. If you need to tilt the cab, follow the factory procedure: the safety support lock must engage, and no people or tools may be under the cab.
  3. Remove the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster. If the reservoir is separate, disconnect the hoses running from it to the cylinder. Place a container and rags underneath: brake fluid damages paint.
  4. Disconnect the fluid level sensor (connector), if equipped.
  5. Mark which line goes to which port, and loosen the line nuts with a flare nut wrench. Plug the lines and ports immediately so fluid doesn't leak out and dirt doesn't get in. Do not use force on seized nuts; apply penetrating oil and wait.
  6. Remove the two nuts securing the cylinder to the booster (usually 12-14 mm) and carefully pull the cylinder straight forward without tilting it on the pushrod. Note any gasket or O-ring between the cylinder and the booster, if there is one, and replace it with the new one from the kit.
  7. Before installing, check the length of the booster pushrod where it protrudes and compare the pushrod engagement of the new cylinder with the old one. If the design allows adjustment, check the clearance to specification: a pushrod that is too short or too long causes brake drag or excessive pedal travel.
  8. If the cylinder comes dry, bench bleed it following the instructions in the package: secure it in a vise, connect short lines back into the reservoir, and press the piston in shallow strokes with a screwdriver until the bubbles stop.
  9. Install the cylinder onto the booster studs and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern. Reference value for nuts like these: 10-20 N·m (7-15 lb-ft); check the manufacturer's specification for the exact value.
  10. Thread the line nuts in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a flare nut wrench. Reference value: 12-20 N·m (9-15 lb-ft); check the specification for the exact value. Reconnect the reservoir and the level sensor connector.
  11. Fill with fresh brake fluid to the MAX mark. Bleed the system in the order specified for this vehicle: usually you start with the wheel farthest from the cylinder and finish with the closest one. Your helper presses the pedal while you open and close the bleeder screw, constantly topping up the reservoir, until fluid flows from the hose without bubbles. If the system has a brake force regulator (a load-sensing valve), bleed it as well if it has a bleeder screw.
  12. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, and check that the pedal is firm and doesn't sink. Inspect the connections for leaks. Check the fluid level.
  13. Do a test drive in an empty area: at low speed, brake several times and make sure the vehicle stops straight, the pedal isn't soft and doesn't go to the floor, and the parking brake holds. Only after that should you drive on the road.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a safety-critical component. Any air in the line or a cross-threaded line fitting can lead to brake failure. If you have no experience working on brake systems or you are unsure about tilting the cab, leave the job to a repair shop. Do not use a fluid class other than the one marked on the reservoir cap. Brake fluid is toxic and damages paint, so wear gloves and safety glasses. If the pedal stays soft after bleeding, do not drive the vehicle; repeat the bleeding or check the system for air leaks.
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