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Autopapyrus · Mercedes-Benz B-Class W247 1.5 CDI OM608 (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mercedes-benz/b-class/clutch-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mercedes-Benz B-Class W247 1.5 CDI OM608 (2019): Clutch Replacement

Replacing the clutch on a Mercedes B-Class W247 with the 1.5 CDI engine is a labor-intensive job that requires removing the subframe together with the transmission and powertrain. The procedure is similar to the A-Class W177 on the MFA2 platform. You must check the condition of the dual-mass flywheel. If it has play, cracks or signs of overheating, replace it at the same time as the clutch.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 7-9 hours Steps: 20 Tools: 4 transmission jacks (or 2 jacks + a rope/strap support for the subframe), two-post lift, 10-19 mm sockets, wheel lug wrench, pry bar, special clutch alignment tool (universal centering mandrel), torque wrench

Parts

2
  • 🔩 Clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing) from LuK, Sachs or Valeo
  • 🔩 dual-mass flywheel (if worn)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more. See manuals →

Step by step

20 steps
  1. Place the vehicle on a two-post lift and disconnect both battery terminals (negative first, then positive).
  2. Remove the washer fluid reservoir to access the subframe mounting points.
  3. Disconnect the reverse light switch connector on the transmission and the ground wire from the transmission mount.
  4. Remove the front wheels and the front bumper mounts (the right bracket holds the outside temperature sensor, so be careful not to damage the connector).
  5. Disconnect the anti-roll bar (sway bar) mounts from the subframe and the exhaust downpipe mount.
  6. Position 4 transmission jacks under the engine, transmission and subframe (on both sides), or use 2 jacks under the powertrain plus a rope/strap support for the subframe. Distribute the weight evenly.
  7. Remove the bolts securing the subframe to the body (usually 6-8 M12 bolts). Slowly lower the subframe together with the powertrain on the jacks far enough to open access to the top of the transmission bell housing.
  8. Disconnect the remaining hoses and wiring from the transmission and remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine (usually 4-6 M10-M12 bolts around the bell housing).
  9. Slide the transmission back along the dowel pins (make sure the pins stay in place and are not damaged), then pull the transmission off the input shaft. Work carefully so you do not damage the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.
  10. Inspect the dual-mass flywheel: turn the two masses against each other by hand. Allowed play is no more than 5-7 degrees. If there is more play, cracks on the friction surface or signs of overheating (bluing, scoring), replace the flywheel.
  11. Loosen the 6 bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel evenly in a crisscross pattern, then remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
  12. Apply a small amount of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines, make sure the new clutch disc slides freely on the splines, and remove any excess grease.
  13. Install the new clutch disc (the protruding part of the hub faces the transmission, and the "Getriebe Seite" or "Gearbox Side" marking faces the transmission). Insert the centering mandrel through the disc into the flywheel pilot bearing.
  14. Install the new pressure plate on the flywheel, start all 6 bolts by hand, and tighten them evenly in a crisscross pattern to 20-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft) (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications). Remove the mandrel.
  15. Install the new release bearing on the transmission input shaft guide tube (if the bearing is integrated with the clutch slave cylinder, check the cylinder's condition and replace it if necessary).
  16. Install the transmission on the engine: align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines and carefully slide the transmission onto the dowel pins without letting it tilt. Tighten the transmission-to-engine bolts in a crisscross pattern to 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft) (confirm in the manufacturer's specifications).
  17. Reconnect the transmission wiring and hoses, raise the subframe with the powertrain into its normal position, and tighten the subframe-to-body bolts to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  18. Reinstall the sway bar mounts, the downpipe mount, the bumper, the washer fluid reservoir and the wheels.
  19. Fill the transmission with gear oil meeting MB 235.10 (75W-80), about 1.8 L (1.9 qt), until it starts to run out of the check/fill hole.
  20. Reconnect the battery terminals (positive first, then negative), start the engine and check clutch operation in all gears. The pedal should travel smoothly with no sudden drops, and shifts should be smooth with no grinding.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job requires solid support for the powertrain and subframe. A falling load of more than 200 kg (440 lb) can be fatal. If you have no experience with transmission jacks and subframes, take the car to a professional repair shop. Be sure to replace the dual-mass flywheel if you find play or signs of overheating, because a worn flywheel will destroy the new clutch within 10,000-20,000 km (6,000-12,000 miles). After installation, avoid slipping the clutch during the first 500 km (300 miles) (break-in period).
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