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Autopapyrus · Toyota Yaris 1.3 (1NR-FE) (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/yaris/clutch-kit-and-clutch-release-cylinder-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Yaris 1.3 (1NR-FE) (2015): Clutch Kit and Clutch Release Cylinder Replacement

On the Yaris XP130 with the 1.3 engine, the clutch is hydraulic, and the release bearing is combined with the slave cylinder inside the transmission bell housing. The transmission has to be removed together with the driveshafts, so the job is labor-intensive. Replace the slave cylinder at the same time as the clutch, and inspect the flywheel and replace or resurface it if necessary.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-7 hours (with a lift and a helper) Steps: 22 Tools: lift or inspection pit, transmission jack, engine support bar or cross-brace, socket and wrench set, clutch disc alignment tool (spline centering arbor), torque wrench, ball joint/tie rod separator or pry bar, containers for transmission oil and brake fluid, high-temperature spline grease, brake and clutch cleaner, fine sandpaper (emery cloth), syringe or vacuum bleeder kit

Parts

4
  • 🔩 clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc) for the 1NR-FE 1.3 from Valeo, LuK, Sachs, Aisin or Exedy
  • 🔩 release bearing in the form of a concentric slave cylinder (CSC, hydraulic, built into the transmission bell housing) – replace it together with the kit
  • 🔩 manual transmission fluid
  • 🔩 fresh brake fluid (DOT 3/4) for the clutch system. Check individual part numbers against the catalog for your transmission
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 7 more. See manuals →

Step by step

22 steps
  1. Put the car on a lift. Remove the lower windshield trim panels (if they get in the way of battery access), disconnect the terminal, and remove the battery together with its tray.
  2. Remove the air filter with its ducts if they get in the way of access to the transmission. Disconnect the shift and select cables from the transmission (they are secured with small clip pins), and unbolt the coolant hose and wiring harness brackets.
  3. Disconnect the reverse light switch connector and any other connectors on the transmission case. Remove the upper bell housing bolts.
  4. Clamp the flexible clutch hydraulic hose with a special clamp or hose pincher and disconnect the rigid line from the transmission. Place a container underneath and plug the openings.
  5. Raise the car and remove the engine undercover. Drain the transmission oil and reinstall the drain plug.
  6. Remove the front wheels. Disconnect the sway bar links and, if necessary, separate the lower control arms or the struts from the hubs (via the two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle). Carefully pull the inner CV joints out of the transmission, and hang the driveshafts on wire, making sure not to over-bend the joints.
  7. Remove the torque rod (the engine's reaction mount). Remove the lower bell housing bolts, leaving one in place as a safety.
  8. Support the engine from above with a support bar, or from below with a jack under the oil pan using a wooden block. Remove the upper transmission mount and lower the engine slightly.
  9. Support the transmission with a transmission jack, remove the last bell housing bolt, slide the transmission back along the dowel pins until the input shaft splines clear the clutch disc, and lower it down.
  10. Loosen the six pressure plate bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern, then remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Note the orientation of the disc (the side marked "Gearbox side" faces the transmission).
  11. Inspect the flywheel: there should be no signs of overheating, heat discoloration, deep grooves, or cracks. If there is only light glazing, scuff the surface with emery cloth and degrease it with cleaner. If it is badly damaged, replace or resurface the flywheel.
  12. Replace the slave cylinder (CSC): disconnect the line, remove the rubber seal boot and the bracket, remove the three mounting bolts, take off the cylinder, and thoroughly clean its seat in the bell housing. Install the new cylinder straight, without tilting, and tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specification. Never press on the new cylinder "dry" without fluid pressure, or the piston will pop out and the cylinder will have to be replaced.
  13. Check the crankshaft rear seal on the transmission side and the input shaft seal for leaks. If there are traces of oil, replace them now, because access will be closed off later.
  14. Lightly coat the transmission input shaft splines with high-temperature grease, slide the disc on and move it back and forth, then remove it and wipe off any excess grease. Grease must not get on the friction linings of the disc or on the flywheel surface.
  15. Wipe the flywheel surface and the pressure plate with degreaser. Install the disc with the alignment tool to center the splines, seat the pressure plate on the dowel pins, and tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern in several stages. Tighten to the manufacturer's specification for the 1NR-FE clutch cover; a torque wrench is mandatory.
  16. Make sure the alignment dowels on the block and the rear plate are in place. Reinstall the transmission on the jack, aligning the splines with the disc. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft, as this will deform the disc.
  17. Install the accessible bell housing bolts, raise the transmission with the engine support, and install the upper mount. Tighten all bolts to the specified torque, then remove the jack and the support bar.
  18. Install the torque rod, driveshafts, sway bar links, ball joints and tie rod parts, and wheels. Reassemble everything in reverse order: transmission cables, connectors, brackets, battery.
  19. Connect the clutch hydraulic line and remove the clamp. Fill the transmission with the recommended oil in the correct amount (up to the level of the fill hole).
  20. Bleed the clutch: first by gravity through the bleeder fitting, then, if necessary, with a syringe or vacuum bleeder until all air is removed. Top up the fluid in the reservoir. With the engine running and the transmission in neutral, check that the pedal fully releases the clutch.
  21. Connect the battery, reset the electrical settings if needed (clock, windows, radio), and clear any fault codes that have appeared.
  22. Take a test drive: the pedal should have a clear, defined travel, gears should engage without grinding, and there should be no slipping under load. For the first 500-1000 km (300-600 miles), drive gently, avoiding hard launches and clutch slipping, so the disc can break in.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job requires removing the transmission from the driveshafts and supporting the engine, so doing it without experience and without reliable lifting equipment is dangerous. Do not work under a car supported only by a jack; use a lift or jack stands. If you do not have a lift and a helper, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop. Do not replace only the disc without the pressure plate, flywheel inspection, and CSC on a high-mileage car, because taking it apart again later will cost more. Get the exact torque values (pressure plate, bell housing, CSC, mounts, ball joints) and the transmission oil capacity from the manufacturer's specification for your transmission.
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