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Autopapyrus · Ford Kuga 1.6 EcoBoost JQMA (2013)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/kuga/crankcase-ventilation-hose-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Kuga 1.6 EcoBoost JQMA (2013): Crankcase Ventilation Hose Replacement

The crankcase ventilation system on the 1.6 EcoBoost uses a dual-circuit design. The main passage connects to the intake manifold through a built-in check valve on the left side of the valve cover. The secondary passage routes blow-by gases through the breather and the oil separator baffle under the manifold into the intake pipe ahead of the throttle body. Over time, the hoses harden, crack, or clog with oil deposits. This raises crankcase pressure, causes oil leaks, and can cause misfires from oil being drawn into the intake.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2 hours Steps: 12 Tools: socket set, hose clamp pliers, flat screwdriver, degreaser

Parts

3
  • 🔩 Crankcase ventilation hose (main) — BM5G6K817BD/BE8Z6N664A
  • 🔩 breather hose (secondary) — from the valve cover to the intake pipe
  • 🔩 PCV valve (integrated into the valve cover). Genuine Ford parts
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 7 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Remove the plastic engine cover (4 clips around the perimeter).
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes.
  3. Take a photo or sketch the hose routing. The 1.6 EcoBoost has two main circuits, and they are easy to mix up during reassembly.
  4. Disconnect the main crankcase ventilation hose from the valve cover. Press down on the ribbed part of the quick-release latch and pull the hose away from the cover.
  5. Disconnect the other end of this hose from the intake manifold (same type of quick-release coupling).
  6. Disconnect the secondary breather hose. It runs from the valve cover, through the oil separator baffle under the manifold, to the intake pipe ahead of the throttle body. Release the spring clamp with pliers and slide the hose aside.
  7. Remove the oil separator baffle (if you can reach it). It is usually held by two 8 mm bolts. Clean it with degreaser and blow it out with compressed air.
  8. Inspect the inside of the old hoses. Oil deposits thicker than 2 mm mean the ventilation is not working properly. Also check the check valve in the valve cover. It is plastic and can fail under high boost pressure. To test it, remove the cover and blow through the valve by mouth: air should flow only outward, not inward.
  9. Install the new hoses in reverse order. First push the ends into their seats until the lock clicks, then pull on each hose to check it. It must not come off without pressing the latch.
  10. Make sure the hoses do not touch hot surfaces (turbocharger, exhaust manifold). Keep a clearance of at least 20 mm.
  11. Reconnect the negative battery terminal, start the engine, and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Check the connections for air leaks (a hissing sound) and oil leaks.
  12. Take a test drive of 10-15 km (6-9 miles) with brief accelerations under load. After stopping, inspect all connections again for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The PCV check valve on the 1.6 EcoBoost is plastic and integrated into the valve cover. If you tune the engine for boost pressure above 1.2 bar (17 psi), install an external metal check valve in the circuit from the valve cover to the manifold. This prevents the stock valve from breaking and oil from being pushed into the intake. For major power modifications (Stage 2 and above), also install a catch can in the secondary breather circuit. This keeps oil out of the combustion chamber and prevents detonation at full throttle.