Autopapyrus · Ford Ranger 2.2 TDCi (150 hp, 2013)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/ranger/glow-plug-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/ranger/glow-plug-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Ford Ranger 2.2 TDCi (150 hp, 2013): Glow Plug Replacement
On the 2.2 TDCi (Duratorq) diesel, the glow plugs are located behind the intake manifold, so some of the ancillary components must be removed to reach them. Replacement is recommended every 50,000-60,000 km or when you have hard cold starts, excessive smoke at startup, or a glow plug fault code. Do the job on a warm engine. This reduces the risk of snapping the ceramic tip of a plug in the aluminum cylinder head.
Part
- 🔩 Ford glow plugs 1717631 (set of 4). Alternative part numbers: BK3Q6M090AB, 186466, Bosch 0250403024
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Step by step
17 steps- Warm the engine up to operating temperature and shut it off. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the decorative engine cover, if fitted.
- Remove the air filter housing and the intake duct to get access to the manifold.
- Remove the fuel filter together with its bracket (or move it aside without fully disconnecting the fuel lines).
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses and the EGR hoses that run to the intake manifold.
- Remove the intake manifold bolts (the tightening sequence runs clockwise from the right, starting with the bolt farthest away; on reassembly follow the reverse order). Remove the manifold, rocking it gently if needed.
- Disconnect the electrical connectors from each glow plug (4 in total, arranged in a row along the cylinder head).
- Apply penetrating oil (WD-40) to the threads of each glow plug and wait 10-15 minutes.
- Unscrew the glow plugs with a 10 mm socket and an extension. Work slowly and evenly, because the aluminum cylinder head tends to seize the plugs. If a plug will not turn, do not use excessive force. Apply penetrating oil again and retry.
- Inspect the threaded holes in the cylinder head. If you see dirt or carbon buildup, carefully clean it out with a brush or blow it out with compressed air.
- Apply a thin layer of copper or nickel anti-seize paste to the threads of the new glow plugs (this makes the next replacement easier).
- Thread the new glow plugs in by hand until they stop, then tighten them with a torque wrench. Torque: 8-13 N·m (6-10 lb-ft). The exact value depends on the plug manufacturer's specification, so use the lower end of the range for the aluminum cylinder head. Do not overtighten, as the threads can strip.
- Reconnect the electrical connectors to the glow plugs.
- Install the intake manifold with a new gasket (the gasket is single-use). Tighten the manifold bolts in two stages: first 5 N·m (44 lb-in), then 9 N·m (7 lb-ft), following the clockwise sequence starting from the right.
- Reconnect all the hoses and ducts, the fuel filter, and the air intake housing.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Turn the ignition on for 5-10 seconds (without starting the engine) to activate the glow plugs and check that the indicator light goes out. Start the engine. It should start more easily and without smoke.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Glow plugs in diesels with an aluminum cylinder head tend to seize because of carbon buildup. Forcing out a cold plug can snap the ceramic tip inside the head, which will require removing the cylinder head or drilling the tip out. Always work on a warm engine, use penetrating oil, and observe the tightening torque. If a plug will not come out, take the vehicle to a repair shop that specializes in diesel engines. Use only genuine Motorcraft, Bosch or Beru glow plugs. Cheap aftermarket copies often fail to withstand heat cycling and break down prematurely.