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Autopapyrus · Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/transit/engine-overhaul/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi (2011): Engine Overhaul

An overhaul of the 2.2 Duratorq TDCi engine (code QWFA, CVFF or equivalent) requires removing the engine, a complete teardown, boring the cylinder block to an oversize, installing new pistons, and replacing the main and connecting rod bearing shells, valve stem seals, gaskets and seals. The work should be done in a specialized engine machine shop with precision equipment for boring, honing and inspecting parts.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 25-40 hours (depends on the degree of wear and your skill level) Steps: 14 Tools: engine hoist or lifting beam for engine removal, socket set 8-24 mm, torque wrench, micrometer and bore gauge for dimension checks, piston ring compressor, valve stem seal installer, crankshaft puller, timing locking tools, caliper, feeler gauge for ring gap checks, copper and plastic-faced hammers

Part

  • 🔩 Engine rebuild kit includes pistons with rings, main and connecting rod bearing shells, gasket set, crankshaft seals, valve stem seals, main cap bolts and cylinder head bolts. Pistons: standard 86.0 mm, oversize 86.25 mm (+0.25) and 86.5 mm (+0.5), OEM 9C1Q6110EAA for +0.5 mm. Main and rod bearing shells depend on the clearances after boring. Main bearing cap bolts must always be replaced
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 10 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Engine removal. Disconnect the battery and drain the oil and coolant. Remove the coolant hoses, intake and exhaust manifolds, accessories (alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump) and the starter. Disconnect all electrical connectors. Remove the transmission (on rear-wheel-drive Transit models, separate it from the transfer case). Secure the engine to the hoist, unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine out vertically.
  2. Engine teardown. Mount the engine on a stand. Remove the cylinder head by loosening the head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence. Remove the oil pan, oil pickup tube and oil pump. Remove the timing cover and timing chain (mark the positions of the marks on the sprockets). Remove the camshafts from the head. Turn the block over and unbolt the connecting rod caps (mark the cylinder numbers). Push the pistons up out through the cylinders. Unbolt the main bearing caps (mark their positions) and remove the crankshaft.
  3. Cylinder block inspection. Clean the block with kerosene or solvent. Using a bore gauge, measure the cylinder diameter at three points along the height and in two perpendicular directions. Standard diameter is 86.0 mm, maximum allowable wear is 0.10 mm, and out-of-round and taper must not exceed 0.02 mm. If wear exceeds the limit, boring is required. Check the crankshaft bearing seats for scoring and cracks. If any are found, the block must be scrapped or line-bored at a specialized shop.
  4. Cylinder block boring. Take the block to an engine machine shop to have all four cylinders bored to an oversize of +0.25 mm (86.25 mm) or +0.5 mm (86.5 mm), depending on the degree of wear. Boring is done on a machine, then the cylinders are honed to create the correct surface finish (cross-hatch at a 45-60 degree angle). After honing, wash the cylinders with soapy water, then with solvent, wipe them with a clean rag and coat them with engine oil.
  5. Crankshaft inspection. Measure the crankshaft journals with a micrometer. Main journals are 59.975-60.000 mm at standard size, and rod journals are 47.975-48.000 mm. If wear exceeds 0.03 mm, or out-of-round or taper is more than 0.01 mm, the crankshaft must be ground to an undersize or replaced. Check the crankshaft runout between centers, which must not exceed 0.03 mm. Inspect the oil passages and clean them with compressed air.
  6. Connecting rod and piston inspection. Inspect the connecting rods for cracks and check the clearance in the small end for the piston pin, which should be 0.01-0.02 mm. The pistons are to be replaced, but check for scoring, cracks and wear of the ring grooves. Measure the piston-to-cylinder clearance after boring, which should be 0.04-0.08 mm for a diesel. Select oversize pistons of the matching size (+0.25 or +0.5 mm).
  7. Piston and connecting rod assembly. Install new piston pins (if replacement is required). The pin is pressed in or has an interference fit, so heat the piston to 60-80 degrees C in an oil bath. Install the rings on the pistons, starting with the oil control ring (bottom), then the compression rings. Check the ring end gap: insert the ring into the cylinder, push it down with a piston to square it, and measure with a feeler gauge. The gap is 0.25-0.50 mm for the compression rings and 0.25-0.50 mm for the oil control ring. Stagger the ring gaps 120 degrees apart from each other.
  8. Cylinder block assembly. Lubricate the main bearing seats and install the new main bearing shells (do not oil the back side, since they are held by interference fit). Lay in the crankshaft and lubricate the journals with engine oil. Install the upper shells in the main bearing caps. Install the new cap bolts. Main bearing tightening torque: 100-110 N·m (74-81 lb-ft) on the first pass, then an additional 90 degrees. Rear main cap: 115-125 N·m (85-92 lb-ft), then an additional 90 degrees. Check the crankshaft end play, which should be 0.08-0.28 mm.
  9. Installing the pistons in the block. Lubricate the cylinders with engine oil. Compress the rings with the piston ring compressor. Insert the connecting rod and piston into the cylinder (the arrow on the piston crown must point forward, toward the timing end). Carefully tap the piston in with the plastic handle of a hammer. Install the new rod bearing shells in the big end of the connecting rod and in the cap. Lubricate the crankshaft rod journals. Tighten the rod cap bolts to 40 N·m (30 lb-ft) on the first pass, then an additional 90 degrees.
  10. Installing the oil pump and oil pan. Install a new oil pump, or disassemble the old one and check the gear clearances (radial clearance 0.10-0.20 mm, axial clearance 0.05-0.12 mm). Install the oil pickup tube with a new gasket. Apply sealant to the block mating surface for the oil pan (thicker bead at the corners), fit a new oil pan gasket and bolt on the oil pan. Tightening torque is 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft).
  11. Replacing the valve stem seals in the cylinder head. Remove the valve springs using a valve spring compressor (remove the keepers from the valves). Remove the old valve stem seals by prying them off with a screwdriver or using a puller. Lubricate the new seals with oil, put a protective sleeve over the valve stem (so the seal lip is not torn on the edges of the keeper groove), and press the seal on with the installer until it seats. Install the springs and refit the keepers. Check the valve seat sealing by pouring kerosene into the ports from the back side of the head. There should be no leakage within 3 minutes.
  12. Timing assembly and cylinder head installation. Install the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and fit the timing chain according to the marks (the mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligned with the mark on the block, the camshaft marks in the top position). Chain tensioner: remove the plug, insert a 2 mm pin to release the plunger lock, tighten the plug, then remove the pin. Turn the crankshaft two full revolutions and make sure the marks line up. Install a new cylinder head gasket (without sealant), then install the cylinder head. Tighten the new head bolts in four stages: 19 N·m (14 lb-ft), then 39 N·m (29 lb-ft), then 49 N·m (36 lb-ft), then loosen all bolts by three turns, then short bolts 20-43 N·m (15-32 lb-ft), long bolts 41-49 N·m (30-36 lb-ft), and then turn all bolts an additional 175-185 degrees (about half a turn). Follow the tightening sequence, working from the center outward in a spiral.
  13. Installing accessories and the engine in the vehicle. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets. Mount the alternator, A/C compressor, starter and power steering pump. Connect all coolant hoses, fuel lines and electrical connectors. Lower the engine on the hoist into the engine bay and tighten the mounts to 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft). Attach the transmission and install the driveshaft (for rear-wheel drive). Fill with engine oil (capacity 6.5 L (6.9 qt) with filter) and coolant (system capacity 10-12 L (10.6-12.7 qt)). Install a new oil filter and fuel filter.
  14. First start and break-in. Before the first start, turn the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions to make sure nothing binds. Prime the fuel system by turning the ignition on for 10-15 seconds several times (without starting) so the fuel pump fills the system. Start the engine. A knock is possible in the first seconds because the oil passages are dry, and it should go away within 5-10 seconds. Warm the engine up to operating temperature at idle (about 90 degrees C). Check for oil and coolant leaks. Break-in over the first 1,000 km: do not exceed 3,000 rpm, and avoid full load and towing. Change the oil after the first 500-1,000 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • An engine overhaul requires a high level of skill and specialized equipment. Block boring, crankshaft grinding and geometry checks must be done only at an engine machine shop. Attempting these operations without the proper machines will ruin the parts. All main cap, rod cap and cylinder head bolts are single-use, and reusing them is not acceptable. Failing to follow the torque specs and sequences will lead to block distortion or a broken connecting rod. Keep everything absolutely clean during assembly, because any speck of dust or grit in the oil passages will destroy the bearing shells. If you have no experience with engine overhauls, leave the job to a specialized engine shop.
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