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Autopapyrus · Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi 100 hp (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/transit/timing-chain-guides-tensioner-and-water-pump-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi 100 hp (2011): Timing Chain, Guides, Tensioner and Water Pump Replacement

The 2.2 TDCi (Duratorq) engine uses a double-row timing chain with no scheduled replacement interval. In practice the chain lasts 300,000-500,000 km, but it needs to be replaced if a characteristic rattle appears on cold start (worn guides or tensioner). This is a difficult job that requires special shaft locking tools and precise timing setup.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-8 hours Steps: 22 Tools: Socket and wrench set, Ford special camshaft locking tools (2 pcs), crankshaft locking tool, crankshaft pulley puller, torque wrench, jack, jack stands, coolant drain pan (5 L (5.3 qt))

Part

  • 🔩 Timing chain kit (chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets) – original Ford 1704087 or 6C1Q-6268-BB. Water pump SKF VKPA 54019 (equivalent to Ford 1849276). Timing cover gasket, front crankshaft seal. Ford Super Plus Premium coolant (5 L (5.3 qt))
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 10 more. See manuals →

Step by step

22 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block into a container.
  2. Remove the front bumper, radiator, intercooler (if equipped) and cooling fan to gain access to the front of the engine.
  3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel, the fender liner and the engine undertray.
  4. Release the accessory drive belt tensioner and remove the belt. Remove the crankshaft pulley (tightening torque on reassembly: 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft)).
  5. Remove the timing cover bolts (about 20 bolts around the perimeter). Remove the cover together with the gasket and the crankshaft seal.
  6. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (as viewed from the front) until the marks on the camshaft sprockets line up with the marks on the cylinder head housing (TDC of cylinder 1). Install the camshaft locking tools into the slots at the rear ends of the shafts. Install the crankshaft locking tool into the hole in the flywheel through the clutch housing (accessed from below).
  7. Remove the timing chain tensioner bolt (spring-loaded hydraulic tensioner). Remove the tensioner.
  8. Remove the bolts securing the chain guides (upper, right and left guides). Remove the guides.
  9. Take the chain off the sprockets. If you are replacing the camshaft sprockets, remove the mounting bolts (tightening torque on reassembly: 25-30 N·m (18-22 lb-ft)). Pull the crankshaft sprocket off with a puller, or carefully pry it off with two pry bars.
  10. Remove the water pump mounting bolts (usually 4-6 bolts). Remove the pump together with the gasket. Clean the mating surfaces of any old gasket material.
  11. Install the new water pump with a new gasket (bolt tightening torque 20-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft)). Check that the impeller spins freely.
  12. Install the new crankshaft sprocket (if replaced) onto the key. Install the new camshaft sprockets (if replaced) and tighten the bolts to 25-30 N·m (18-22 lb-ft).
  13. Fit the new chain onto the crankshaft sprocket first, then onto both camshaft sprockets. Make sure the marks line up and the chain is taut with no slack.
  14. Install the new chain guides (upper, right, left). Tighten the mounting bolts to 10-15 N·m (7-11 lb-ft).
  15. Install the new chain tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolt to 15-20 N·m (11-15 lb-ft). The tensioner will set itself automatically after the engine is started.
  16. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools. Turn the crankshaft by hand 2 full turns clockwise – the marks must line up again. If they do not, repeat the timing setup.
  17. Install the new crankshaft seal in the timing cover (sealing lip facing inward). Apply a thin layer of sealant (Ford WSE-M4G323-A6 or equivalent) to the cover mating surface. Install the cover and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 10-12 N·m (89-106 lb-in).
  18. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft) (use a flywheel locking tool).
  19. Install the accessory drive belt and adjust its tension.
  20. Reassemble everything in reverse order: fender liner, wheel, engine undertray, intercooler, radiator, bumper.
  21. Fill with Ford Super Plus Premium coolant up to the MAX mark on the expansion tank. Bleed the air pockets: warm the engine up to operating temperature with the expansion tank cap open, topping up the coolant periodically.
  22. Connect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and listen to it at idle – there should be no knocking or rattling. Check for oil and coolant leaks at the timing cover and water pump.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Use only genuine Ford parts or parts from reputable manufacturers (SKF, INA, IWIS). Cheap aftermarket chains and guides can fail after 20,000-30,000 km. It is CRITICAL to set the timing correctly – a mistake will cause the valves to hit the pistons and lead to a major engine overhaul. If you have no experience with timing chain drives and the special Ford locking tools, take the vehicle to a repair shop.
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