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Autopapyrus · Hyundai Elantra HD 1.6 (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/elantra/manual-transmission-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Elantra HD 1.6 (2010): Manual Transmission Replacement

Replacing the manual transmission on a Hyundai Elantra HD is a labor-intensive job that requires a lift or pit, a helper and experience working with drivetrains. The M5CF1 transmission is removed together with the driveshafts and requires disconnecting the shift cables, the clutch slave cylinder and the sensor wiring. You can't do this job without a lift and a support under the transmission.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-8 hours Steps: 26 Tools: lift or inspection pit, transmission jack, set of wrenches and sockets (10-19 mm), ratchet with extension, screwdrivers, pry bar, torque wrench, drain pan, funnel for filling transmission oil

Part

  • 🔩 M5CF1 manual transmission assembly (the OE Hyundai part number depends on trim and equipment. When buying a used or remanufactured unit, verify compatibility by the transmission code). Transmission oil 75W-90 GL-5, capacity 1.9 L (2.0 qt). Replacing the clutch (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) at the same time is recommended if mileage is over 100,000 km
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

26 steps
  1. Put the car on a lift or drive it over a pit, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Drain the oil from the transmission through the drain plug in the bottom of the case, loosening it with a 17 mm wrench.
  3. Remove the air filter housing and the air intake duct to get access to the upper transmission mounting bolts.
  4. Disconnect the speed sensor and reverse light switch connectors on the transmission case.
  5. Disconnect the shift cables from the selector levers on the transmission case, noting or marking their positions.
  6. Remove the starter by undoing the two bolts holding it to the clutch housing with a 13-14 mm wrench.
  7. Remove the engine splash shield and the subframe if they block access to the lower transmission bolts and the mount.
  8. Remove the driveshafts from the transmission. Carefully pry the inner CV joint out with a pry bar, pull the shaft out of the case, and secure it to the side so it doesn't pull on the steering knuckle.
  9. Undo the bolt holding the left engine mount to the subframe, and support the engine from above with a cable or a wooden beam to take the load.
  10. Place a jack under the transmission case to support it during removal.
  11. Undo the bolts holding the transmission to the engine block through the clutch housing. The upper bolts are removed from the engine compartment and the lower ones from underneath. There are usually 4-6 bolts. The tightening torque for installation is 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft). Confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual.
  12. Pull the transmission back, parallel to the axis of the input shaft, to clear the input shaft from the clutch. Do not let the transmission sag downward, or you will damage the shaft or the clutch pressure plate.
  13. Lower the transmission on the jack and remove it from under the car.
  14. If you are replacing the clutch, undo the pressure plate bolts on the flywheel evenly in a crisscross pattern with a 12-13 mm wrench, remove the pressure plate and disc, and take the release bearing off the clutch fork.
  15. Install the new clutch, or check the old one for wear. The disc must not be thinner than 7 mm, the pressure plate must have no cracks or burn marks, and the release bearing must have no play.
  16. Assemble the clutch on the flywheel and center the disc with an alignment tool through the input shaft hole. Tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to 15-20 N·m (11-15 lb-ft).
  17. Install the release bearing on the clutch fork.
  18. Raise the transmission on the jack, align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines, and carefully slide the transmission toward the block. If it doesn't go in, don't force it with a hammer. Check that the splines and the dowel pins are aligned.
  19. Tighten the bolts holding the transmission to the block in a crisscross pattern to 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft).
  20. Bolt the transmission mount to the subframe.
  21. Install the driveshafts into the transmission until the retaining rings click into place.
  22. Install the starter and tighten the bolts to 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft).
  23. Connect the shift cables and the sensor wiring.
  24. Install the air filter housing and the engine splash shield.
  25. Fill with fresh 75W-90 GL-5 transmission oil through the filler hole on top of the transmission, up to the lower edge of the hole. Capacity is 1.9 L (2.0 qt).
  26. Connect the battery, start the engine, and check that the gears engage at idle and that there are no oil leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Replacing a transmission is a high-difficulty job that requires a lift and special tools. If you have no experience working with drivetrains and no helper, take the car to a repair shop. When removing the transmission, be sure to replace the driveshaft seals in the case and check the condition of the clutch. Removing the transmission a second time just for the clutch will cost more. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft, or you will bend the shaft or damage the pressure plate fingers.
How it works · 3D How a Manual Transmission Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →