← Elantra Hyundai Elantra repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · Hyundai Elantra (6th generation, AD)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/elantra/rear-control-arm-and-bushing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Elantra (6th generation, AD): Rear Control Arm and Bushing Replacement

The rear control arms and their bushings wear out at 80,000-150,000 km. Symptoms: knocking over bumps, rear-end steering (the car steers itself), a "floating" rear end, and uneven wear on the inner edges of the tires. The key point of this job: tighten the arm fasteners only under load, with the suspension resting on its wheels. A wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours (both sides, including seized bolts) Steps: 13 Tools: Lift or pit (or a jack and jack stands), socket and wrench set 17/19/21/22 mm, torque wrench, bushing puller or press, ball joint separator, pry bar, penetrating oil, wire brush, marker or paint for alignment marks

Part

  • 🔩 The AD has a multi-link rear suspension (some trims with this engine range may use a torsion beam), so first determine which type your car has. For the multi-link design, the parts are the camber arm (upper lateral link), the lower lateral arm (front and rear), the trailing arm, the bushings for each arm, and a set of self-locking bolts. Part numbers depend on the specific arm and its position (left or right, front or rear), so choose the exact number by part name and position. OE complete arms are usually cheaper and faster than pressing in new bushings
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Determine the suspension type. Look from underneath: if separate lateral arms run from the hub to the body, it is a multi-link design. If there is a cross beam, it is a semi-independent design, and you will need to replace the beam bushings and the shock absorbers.
  2. Loosen the wheel nuts, lift the rear of the car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Remove the underbody shield if it is in the way.
  3. Spray all threaded connections of the arms with penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes. Clean the threads with a wire brush.
  4. Mark the position of the eccentric washers and bolts (if equipped) on the camber and toe arms with a marker. This preserves the approximate alignment settings until you can adjust them on an alignment rack.
  5. Support the hub or the lower arm with a jack so the spring does not release suddenly. If you are removing the lower arm, keep in mind that the spring or shock absorber may rest on it, so work carefully.
  6. Remove the nut and drive out the bolt that secures the arm to the hub (steering knuckle). Then remove the bolt on the subframe side. If a bolt is seized, heat it and use a puller, and do not hammer on the threads.
  7. Remove the arm. Compare the new part with the old one and check that the length, shape, and bushing positions match.
  8. If you are replacing only the bushings, press the old one out with a press or puller, clean the seat, and press the new one in exactly along the axis, without tilting it. Heat and impact methods damage the rubber. If you are not sure, replace the complete arm.
  9. Install the arm in place. Use new bolts and tighten them by hand only, without final tightening.
  10. Repeat the procedure on the other arms on this side. Replace them one at a time so you do not lose the hub position. If you are replacing arms on both sides, do it one side at a time.
  11. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground so the suspension is under load. Bounce the body so the bushings settle into their working position.
  12. Do the final tightening of the arm bolts under load with a torque wrench. The manufacturer's torque specification is different for each bolt: roughly 100-180 N·m (74-133 lb-ft) for the main arm bolts, but check the exact value in the manufacturer's manual for your specific arm. Tightening by feel is not acceptable. Tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern, to about 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft).
  13. After 100-200 km, check the tightness and make sure there are no knocking noises, then have a wheel alignment done on an alignment rack. Without it, the tires will wear quickly.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The suspension is a safety-critical system. If you have no experience or no jack stands, leave the job to a repair shop. Incorrect tightening, a tilted bushing, or a skipped wheel alignment will worsen handling and quickly ruin the tires. Do not replace arms on only one side if the other side is also worn. Always use new self-locking bolts and nuts.
How it works · 3D How Car Suspension Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →