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Autopapyrus · Kia Ceed (1st generation, ED)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/ceed/rear-control-arm-bushing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Ceed (1st generation, ED): Rear Control Arm Bushing Replacement

The rear suspension of the first-generation Kia Ceed is an independent multi-link design with bushings pressed tightly into the arm eyes. Typical service life is 80,000-120,000 km. Replacement requires pressing the old bushings out with a hydraulic press. Attempts with a vise or makeshift tools usually end with a broken tool.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 4-6 hours (both sides) Steps: 10 Tools: lift or jack stands, wrench and socket set 14-19 mm, hydraulic press or bushing remover, torque wrench, WD-40 or equivalent, wire brush

Part

  • 🔩 Ceed ED rear multi-link suspension (3 lateral arms + 1 trailing arm per side), 12 bushings in total. Main items: lower lateral arm (OE 552152G000, aftermarket CTR CVKK26 - 4 pcs), front trailing arm (CTR CVKH67 - 2 pcs), inner lower arm (CTR CVKH128 - 2 pcs), rear knuckle (CTR CVKH130 - 2 pcs), floating bushings (55130-4D000 - 2 pcs)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Raise the rear of the car on a lift or set it on jack stands, then remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the inner fender liner. The ABS sensor connector is hidden behind it, so disconnect it.
  3. Remove the bolts that secure the arms to the knuckle and to the subframe (17-19 mm wrenches). The bolts are usually in good condition and don't need replacing, even at 140,000 km, but treat the threads with lubricant before reassembly.
  4. Remove the lateral arms and the trailing arm. An angled wrench attachment makes it easier to reach the rear bolt of the trailing arm.
  5. Press the old bushings out on a hydraulic press. They sit very tightly, and there may be a loud bang when the fit breaks loose. An ordinary vise can't handle it and breaks in half.
  6. Press in the new bushings on the press, keeping the correct orientation (some versions have an alignment mark).
  7. Install the arms on the car and start all the bolts by hand, but do NOT tighten them.
  8. Lower the car onto its wheels (or place a support under the hub that simulates the suspension load in its normal working position).
  9. Tighten all the arm bolts with a torque wrench. Shock absorber-to-knuckle bolt: 140-160 N·m (103-118 lb-ft). Arm-to-subframe and arm-to-knuckle bolts: 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft). Check the manufacturer's specifications for the exact value for each fastener.
  10. After reassembly, be sure to have the rear axle alignment checked and adjusted on an alignment rack.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Tightening the arm bolts with the suspension hanging causes the rubber elements of the bushings to twist and wear out prematurely, so always tighten them under load. If you replace only some of the bushings, check the condition of the rest. If the car has gone over 100,000 km, it makes more sense to replace the whole set at once.
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