Autopapyrus · Kia Ceed (3rd generation, CD)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/ceed/front-drive-axle-driveshaft-removal-and-installation/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Ceed (3rd generation, CD): Front Drive Axle (Driveshaft) Removal and Installation

The driveshaft comes out together with the hub, which swings outward, and the inner CV joint is pried out of the transmission. The main risks are losing transmission fluid, damaging the seal and the boot, and loading the wheel bearing if the car is left standing on its wheels without a driveshaft. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for front-wheel-drive Kia and Hyundai vehicles on this platform. Torque values are given as ranges, so check the exact figures against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours for both axles Steps: 18 Tools: floor jack and jack stands, lug wrench, 17 mm and 19 mm sockets, axle nut socket (usually 30-32 mm), torque wrench, pry bar, hammer and soft-metal drift, ball joint separator (optional), punch or thin screwdriver for the cotter pin, drain pan for oil, plugs or a clean rag for the transmission openings

Part

🔩 left and right driveshaft assemblies (for the 1.6 MPI, depends on the transmission: manual or automatic), driveshaft retaining circlip (snap ring) at the transmission, cotter pin and a new axle nut (if it is single-use), CV boots if needed. Exact part numbers are not listed because they differ by transmission type

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

18 steps

Park the car on a level surface, put it in gear or P, and apply the parking brake. While the wheels are still on the ground, loosen the axle nut by 1/4 turn, so the vehicle's weight holds the hub. First remove the hub cap and take out the cotter pin from the nut.
Loosen the lug nuts, raise the front of the car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
Remove the engine undercover (skid plate) if it blocks access to the transmission.
Drain the transmission fluid. For both manual and automatic transmissions, draining is usually not necessary: it is enough to plug the opening after the driveshaft is pried out. If you do drain the fluid, check the service manual for the fluid type and capacity.
Remove the axle nut completely (the tightening torque on this platform is usually about 200-250 N·m (148-184 lb-ft), so you will need a long breaker bar). Do not hit the driveshaft and do not rock the wheel while it is not secured.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle (the nut has a locking feature). Alternatively, remove the two bolts that secure the knuckle to the strut, but then you will have to check the alignment afterward. The first option is easier.
Push the outer CV joint out of the hub: tap lightly on the end of the splines through a soft drift, or use a puller bolt. Do not apply force to the cage or the boot.
Swing the knuckle outward and slide the driveshaft off the hub splines. Do not let the driveshaft hang from the inner CV joint: it may come apart or be damaged. Hang the driveshaft from a wire.
Pry the inner CV joint out of the transmission. To do this, use a pry bar between the transmission case and the CV joint housing with a sharp motion. The force must be enough to overcome the circlip. Do not pull on the shaft or the boot.
If your version's right driveshaft has an intermediate shaft with a bracket and support bearing, first unbolt the bracket from the engine block (usually 2-3 bolts). After that, remove the driveshaft as a whole. Check the bearing for play and noise.
Immediately after removal, close the opening in the transmission with a plug or a clean rag, so that oil does not leak out and dirt does not get in.
Inspect the driveshaft: boots for cracks and grease leaks, play in the outer and inner CV joints, and splines for wear. If a boot is torn and the CV joint "crunches" on turns, it is better to replace the driveshaft as an assembly.
Before installation, replace the circlip on the inner CV joint stub shaft with a new one, and apply a thin layer of grease to the splines and the transmission seal. Wipe the mating surfaces clean.
Insert the inner CV joint into the transmission in line with the bore, until the circlip clicks into place. Give the end a sharp blow with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. Make sure the driveshaft is locked in place by pulling on it.
Guide the outer CV joint into the hub splines, taking care not to damage the boot or the ABS sensor (if it is nearby).
Connect the ball joint to the knuckle, tighten the nut to the specified torque (usually about 90-120 N·m (66-89 lb-ft) for this type of joint, exact value per the service manual), and install a new locking pin.
Hand-tighten the axle nut, install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the nut fully to the torque in the service manual (see the range above). Lock it by staking it or installing a new cotter pin, depending on the design.
Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern (usually 107-127 N·m (79-94 lb-ft)). Top off the transmission fluid level if you drained it. Check operation and take a test drive: listen for clicking on turns and watch for vibration under acceleration. Check the transmission for leaks the next day.

Common mistakes and warnings

The driveshaft and hub are connected to the braking, steering, and suspension systems, so a mistake when tightening the nuts or the ball joint can lead to loss of control. If you lack experience and a torque wrench, leave the job to a repair shop. After any work on the knuckle or strut, have the wheel alignment checked. Do not drive or roll the car on its wheels without a driveshaft installed: the wheel bearing will be destroyed.