Autopapyrus · Geely Monjaro (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/geely/monjaro/rear-driveshaft-seal-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Geely Monjaro (1st generation): Rear Driveshaft Seal Replacement

The driveshaft seals on the Monjaro's rear drive (all-wheel drive) seal the points where the axle shafts exit the rear differential housing. Replace them if you see oil leaking from the differential side, if the differential is losing oil, or after replacing an axle shaft. The exact procedure for this model is barely documented in public service materials, so what follows is the general principle used on all-wheel-drive crossovers with independent rear suspension. Check tightening torques against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours Steps: 15 Tools: Lift or pit, jack and jack stands, sockets and wrenches (box-end and open-end), torque wrench, hub puller or pry bar, seal driver of the appropriate diameter, seal puller, fluid extractor syringe or pump, drain pan, shop rags, brake cleaner

Part

🔩 Rear differential (rear drive unit) driveshaft seals, left and right, OEM or from a reputable manufacturer. For the 2025 model year (AWD) the exact name is "Rear drive unit seal." Additional parts as needed: rear differential gear oil (same grade as specified in the maintenance schedule), new hub nuts and retaining hardware if they are single-use, O-rings or a cover gasket

Step by step

15 steps

Make sure the leak is actually coming from the axle shaft seal and not from the differential cover, the breather, or the input shaft seal. To do this, clean the area with brake cleaner, drive 20-30 km (12-19 miles), and inspect it: oil on the inner side of the driveshaft and on the brake backing plate points to the axle shaft seal.
Park the vehicle on a level surface, shift into P, and release the parking brake (it is electromechanical; if it locks the disc, put it into service mode through the menu or with the button before removing the caliper). Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle, and set it on jack stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the underbody shield if it covers the rear differential. Place a drain pan under the differential.
Drain the oil from the rear differential. To do this, remove the drain plug (on the differential housing; the fill plug is higher up on the housing). Always loosen the fill plug first to make sure it can be removed; otherwise you won't be able to refill the oil afterward. Inspect the drained oil for metal shavings and metal dust: fine dust is acceptable, but large shavings indicate gear wear.
Remove the caliper without disconnecting the brake hose (hang it with wire so it doesn't hang by the hose), then the caliper bracket and the brake disc. Disconnect the ABS sensor if it is in the way.
Disconnect the lower control arm, lower toe link, or sway bar link (whichever blocks removing the axle shaft) from the steering knuckle. Note the position of any adjustment elements, and mark the position of the eccentric bolts so you don't throw off camber and toe.
Remove the hub nut (it may be extremely tight and single-use), swing the steering knuckle outward, and pull the outer joint of the axle shaft out of the hub. If the shaft won't come out, carefully tap it out through a soft-metal drift or pull it with a hub puller. Never strike the joint or the boot.
Pull the inner joint (CV joint) out of the differential. It is usually held by a snap ring inside the differential side gear, so pull it out with a sharp but even force along the axis, using a pry bar between the differential housing and the joint body. Do not pull on the shaft itself, and do not bend the joints beyond their permitted angle.
Remove the old seal with a seal puller, or pry it out with a screwdriver without damaging the seat in the housing. Clean the seat and the differential side gear splines of dirt and sealant residue.
Inspect the axle shaft splines, the differential side gear splines, the CV boots, and the shaft journal under the seal. Scoring, corrosion, or a wear step on the journal means the new seal will leak again, and the shaft must be replaced.
Lubricate the working lip of the new seal with clean gear oil. Press the seal in evenly with a driver, exactly perpendicular to the axis, until it bottoms out or to the same depth as the old one. Do not hit the seal itself, and do not let it cock.
Replace the snap ring on the end of the axle shaft if it is deformed. Insert the axle shaft into the differential until the snap ring clicks into place, and check that the shaft is locked (pull it outward by hand).
Reassemble in reverse order: hub, knuckle, arms, disc, caliper. Tighten the hub nut, arm bolts, caliper bolts, and wheel nuts with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specified torques; replace any nuts marked as single-use.
Fill the rear differential with oil up to the lower edge of the fill hole, then install the fill and drain plugs with new copper or aluminum washers. Take the oil capacity and specification from your Monjaro's maintenance schedule.
Lower the vehicle, pump the brake pedal until it is firm (after the caliper has been removed), make sure the parking brake works, and exit service mode. Take a test drive of 10-15 km (6-9 miles), then inspect the differential for leaks and check the oil level. After working on the suspension arms, it is recommended to have the alignment (camber and toe) checked.

Common mistakes and warnings

This job involves the brake system and suspension, which are safety-critical. If you lack the experience and equipment (lift, torque wrench, drivers), leave it to a repair shop. Replace the seal only if the joints and bearings are in perfect condition. After reassembly, be sure to check the differential oil level and brake operation before driving on the road. On a vehicle with an electromechanical parking brake, remove the rear caliper only after putting the brake into service mode.