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Autopapyrus · Lada Granta (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/granta/replacing-the-axle-shaft-driveshaft-seals-in-the-transmission/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Lada Granta (1st generation): Replacing the Axle Shaft (Driveshaft) Seals in the Transmission

Oil leaking where the driveshafts exit the transmission shows up as a wet transmission case and oil streaks on the inner CV joints. The seals are pressed into the transmission case, and each driveshaft is retained in the differential by a snap ring. To replace the seals, remove the driveshafts from the transmission one at a time so you don't lose oil or bind the CV joints. The job is easier on a lift.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours Steps: 12 Tools: lift, or a pit with a jack and jack stands, sockets for the wheel bolts and the hub nut, heavy-duty breaker bar and extension, pry bar or spatula, seal puller or thin hook-type pick, seal driver sized to the seal diameter, hammer, syringe or funnel for the oil, drain pan, wire brush, rags, grease for the seal lip

Part

  • 🔩 two transmission axle shaft (driveshaft) seals, one for each side, matched to your transmission (2181). 75W-90 GL-4 transmission oil for refilling, approximately 3 L (3.2 qt), if you drained it. If you drained the oil, get a new gasket or sealing washer for the drain plug

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and leave it in gear. Loosen the wheel nuts or bolts and the front hub nuts. The hub nut is torqued very tight, so loosen it before lifting the car or while the brake pedal is pressed.
  2. Lift the front of the car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheels. Remove the engine splash shield (skid plate) if one is installed.
  3. Place a drain pan under the transmission and drain the oil through the drain plug. If the oil in the transmission is fresh, you can skip draining and work quickly with a pan under the driveshaft openings. However, oil will run out of both openings once the driveshafts are removed, so draining is the safer approach.
  4. Remove the hub nut (don't lose the washer) and undo the nut on the control arm ball joint. Push the steering knuckle outward and swing it aside, then pull the outer CV joint out of the hub. If the splines are stuck, carefully tap it out using a soft-metal or wooden spacer. Don't strike the end of the CV joint directly, and don't let the driveshaft hang on the CV boots.
  5. Pry the inner CV joint away from the transmission housing with a pry bar (bracing against the transmission case) and knock it out of the differential with a sharp, short motion: the snap ring on the driveshaft splines releases from the side gear. Pull out the driveshaft and tie it up to the body or the spring. It must not hang from the outer CV joint.
  6. Remove the old seal from the transmission case with a seal puller or hook-type pick, taking care not to damage the seat. Clean the seat and the side gear splines of dirt and leftover oil.
  7. Lubricate the lip and outer surface of the new seal with oil or grease. Press it in with the driver, straight and without tilting, until it seats fully in its bore. Don't damage the lip with the driveshaft splines.
  8. Check the snap ring on the inner CV joint splines. It must be intact and not deformed. If it is worn, replace the driveshaft or the ring. Insert the driveshaft through the seal exactly along the axis so the splines enter the differential side gear. Push the driveshaft in with a sharp but careful motion until the snap ring clicks into place, then check that it can't be pulled out by hand.
  9. Repeat steps 5-8 on the other side. Don't remove both driveshafts at the same time unless necessary. With one side open, the differential side gears can shift, so don't turn the hubs with a driveshaft removed, and install the driveshaft in the side that is already open.
  10. Install the outer CV joints into the hubs, then tighten the ball joint nut and the hub nut to the manufacturer's specified torque (the hub nut takes a very high torque, roughly 200-300 N·m (148-221 lb-ft)). Secure the nut with a cotter pin or by staking it, as the design requires.
  11. Install the drain plug and fill the transmission with oil up to the level of the fill/check hole. Install the wheels, lower the car, and tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern, approximately 85-100 N·m (63-74 lb-ft).
  12. Warm up the car, check that the driveshaft exit points are dry, check the transmission oil level, and take a short test drive. Then inspect the seals again for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • If, after installation, the driveshaft doesn't lock in place or moves back and forth along its axis, the snap ring has not seated in the differential side gear. In that case the driveshaft can pop out while driving, which is dangerous. This job involves the suspension and hub nut torque, so if you lack experience, it is better to take the car to a repair shop. Check the exact torque values and oil capacity against the manufacturer's specifications for your transmission, as the values I gave for this model are approximate.
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