Autopapyrus · Hyundai Solaris (1st generation, RB) (Accent)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/solaris/front-control-arm-bushing-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Solaris (1st generation, RB) (Accent): Front Control Arm Bushing Replacement

On the first-generation Hyundai Solaris (Accent), worn front control arm bushings show up as knocking noises over bumps, the car pulling to one side under braking, and uneven tire wear. Replacement requires pressing the old bushings out of the arms and pressing the new ones in using a vise or a press. The job is done in pairs on both arms to keep suspension stiffness even.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 3-4 hours (both arms) Steps: 18 Tools: Floor jack and jack stands, socket and wrench set (17, 19, 22 mm), ball joint separator, bench vise, press-out/press-in drivers (or a 24 mm socket for the small bushing), hydraulic press or a heavy-duty jack, snap rings (retaining rings), WD-40 penetrating lubricant, wire brush, liquid soap

Part

🔩 Front large bushing 54551-4L000 (aftermarket equivalent CTR CVKH117), front small bushing 54551-1R000 (aftermarket equivalent CTR CVKH118). Replace in pairs on both arms

Step by step

18 steps

Raise the front of the car with a jack and set it on sturdy jack stands, then remove the front wheels.
Spray the bolts that secure the arms to the subframe and the steering knuckle with WD-40 penetrating lubricant and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
Remove the nut that secures the ball joint to the steering knuckle, then separate the ball joint stud with a ball joint separator.
Remove the two bolts that secure the arm to the subframe (rear and front), then take the arm off the car.
Clamp the arm in a vise and remove the ball joint snap ring (if you plan to replace the ball joint).
Set the arm in the vise with the prepared drivers and press out the large rear bushing with a press or a jack.
Press out the small front bushing. A 24 mm socket works well as a driver.
Clean the seats of dirt, rust and old rubber with a wire brush.
Lubricate the seats in the arm and the outer surface of the new bushings with liquid soap (not grease, which can cause the bushing to spin in its seat).
Orient the bushings by their marks: the arrow on the bushing must point to the letter R (right arm) or L (left arm) stamped on the arm body. If there is no arrow, point the middle of the slot at the letter.
Press in the large bushing with a press or hydraulic jack through a driver, making sure it goes in straight without cocking.
Press in the small bushing the same way.
If you are replacing the ball joint, press its housing into the arm, install the snap ring, pack grease through the grease fitting (if equipped), and fit the dust boot.
Install the arm on the car and start the subframe bolts and the ball joint nut by hand.
Lower the car onto its wheels (or load the suspension with a jack). Final tightening of the arm bolts must be done under load, otherwise the bushings will fail quickly from pre-twisted rubber.
Tighten the arm-to-subframe bolts to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft) (confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual) and the ball joint nut to 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft).
Repeat the procedure for the second arm.
Install the wheels, lower the car, and have the wheel alignment (camber and toe) done at a professional repair shop.

Common mistakes and warnings

Do not drive bushings in by hitting them with a hammer. This damages the rubber part and causes improper seating. Do not tighten the arm bolts with the suspension hanging, because the rubber bushings will run in a twisted state and tear quickly. Always replace the bushings in pairs on both arms, even if wear is noticeable on only one side.

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