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Autopapyrus · Hyundai Solaris (1st generation, RB)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/solaris/rear-drum-brake-shoe-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Solaris (1st generation, RB): Rear Drum Brake Shoe Replacement

On a 1st-generation Hyundai Solaris (Accent) with rear drum brakes, the shoes should be replaced every 60,000-80,000 km or when the lining thickness drops below 1.5 mm. The procedure includes removing the drum, disassembling the spring and star wheel mechanism, replacing the shoes as a complete set, adjusting the clearance, and checking the parking brake.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2 hours (both sides) Steps: 21 Tools: jack, lug wrench, 12 mm and 14 mm wrenches, rubber mallet, flat-head screwdriver, pliers, wire brush, WD-40 or penetrating oil

Part

  • 🔩 Rear drum brake shoes (set of 4). OE: 58305-3XA00, or aftermarket equivalents such as Hi-Q, Sangsin, Akebono, Ferodo. Also high-temperature grease for the guide points and the adjuster star wheel

Step by step

21 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake by 1-2 clicks (not fully), and loosen the rear wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench.
  2. Raise the rear of the car with a jack, support it on a jack stand, and remove the wheel.
  3. Fully release the parking brake. Remove the two drum retaining screws (M8, for a screwdriver or Torx bit, if fitted). If there are no screws, go to the next step.
  4. Remove the drum by tapping lightly around its perimeter with a rubber mallet (if it is stuck). If it is badly seized, thread a lug nut onto a stud 2-3 turns, flush with the stud end, and tap on the nut to protect the threads. If the drum will not come off because of shoe wear, find the rubber plug or oval hole on the back of the backing plate, insert a screwdriver, and turn the toothed adjuster counterclockwise to retract the shoes.
  5. After removing the drum, inspect the friction surface for wear, scoring and cracks. Wipe the inside with a dry rag to remove brake dust (do not breathe the dust, it is harmful).
  6. Take a photo or draw a sketch of the positions of the springs and mechanism parts before disassembly. It will make reassembly easier.
  7. Remove the upper and lower return springs with pliers or a special hook. The springs are strong, so work carefully.
  8. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever on the rear shoe (pull the cable end out of the lever slot while compressing the cable spring).
  9. Remove the strut (spacer bar) between the upper ends of the shoes (if fitted), then remove the front and rear shoes from the anchor pins. Note the position of the parking brake lever on the rear shoe, as it will be moved to the new shoe.
  10. Remove the retaining clip or cotter pin from the parking brake lever pivot, transfer the lever to the new rear shoe in the same position, and secure it.
  11. Clean the backing plate, wheel cylinder and pin axes of dirt and old grease with a brush. Check the cylinder for brake fluid leaks under the rubber boots. If you find any moisture, replace the cylinder.
  12. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease (Liqui Moly LM 508, Castrol Brake & Clutch Grease, EFELE) to the support pads, pin axes, the points where the shoes contact the backing plate, and the toothed adjuster star wheel. Do not let grease get on the friction linings of the shoes.
  13. Install the new shoes on the anchor pins and connect the parking brake cable to the lever on the rear shoe.
  14. Install the strut between the upper ends of the shoes, then the upper and lower return springs (in the reverse order of removal).
  15. Turn the toothed adjuster clockwise with a screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate (to expand the shoes) until the drum slides onto the shoes with light effort: not loose, but without needing heavy force.
  16. Fit the drum onto the hub and tighten the drum retaining screws (if fitted) to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft). Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  17. Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 100-110 N·m (74-81 lb-ft) with a torque wrench, working in a crisscross pattern.
  18. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel (shoes are replaced only in pairs, on both sides).
  19. After installation, press the brake pedal 5-7 times to seat the shoes in their working position. Check the parking brake: it should hold the car on a slope within 3-5 clicks of the lever.
  20. Make the final adjustment: raise the rear of the car on a jack and turn the wheel by hand. Tighten the adjuster through the hole in the backing plate until you feel light drag when rotating, then back it off 3-4 teeth until the wheel turns freely with minimal contact.
  21. Break in the new shoes: for the first 200-300 km, avoid hard braking and brake gently so the linings bed in to the drum.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Drum brake shoes must be replaced as a complete set on both sides. Replacing only one side will cause uneven braking force and the car will pull to one side when braking. Brake dust may contain harmful components, so work in a ventilated area, do not breathe the dust, and wipe parts with a damp cloth. If you find brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder, or drum wear of more than 1.5 mm, replace the faulty parts before reassembly. For the first 200-300 km after replacement, braking performance is reduced by 15-20 percent because the shoes are not yet bedded in, so allow for longer stopping distances.
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