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Autopapyrus · Infiniti QX70 (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/infiniti/qx70/diagnosing-and-fixing-front-brake-squeal/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Infiniti QX70 (1st Generation): Diagnosing and Fixing Front Brake Squeal

Front brake squeal on the Infiniti QX70 is most often caused by insufficient lubrication of the contact points between the pads and the caliper, or by worn anti-squeal shims. In most cases the problem is fixed by properly lubricating the guide pins, the backs of the pads, and the pad "ears" (the side tabs of the pads that slide in the slots of the caliper bracket). If the friction material is thinner than 3 mm, the pads must be replaced.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes Steps: 11 Tools: jack, lug wrench, 17 mm wrench, wire brush, shop rags, synthetic brake lubricant

Part

  • 🔩 If the pads need replacing: Infiniti D1060-1NC1B (for 3.7 V6), or aftermarket equivalents from Akebono or Brembo. Anti-squeal shims: Infiniti 410800V726. Caliper guide lubricant: synthetic high-temperature brake grease

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Raise the vehicle with a jack, remove the front wheel, and inspect the brake rotor for deep grooves or uneven wear.
  2. Measure the pad thickness through the caliper inspection window. If the friction material is less than 3 mm thick, the pads need to be replaced. A new pad is 16 mm thick.
  3. Remove the lower caliper guide pin (17 mm bolt), swing the caliper upward, and secure it to the spring with wire or a hook so it does not hang on the brake hose.
  4. Remove the pads together with the anti-squeal shims and clean the caliper bracket of dust and dirt (use a brush and rags; do NOT blow it off with compressed air, because brake dust is toxic).
  5. Inspect the pad "ears" (the square tabs on the sides) and the slots in the caliper bracket where they slide. If you see corrosion or galling on them, clean them with fine sandpaper or a small file.
  6. Apply a thin layer of synthetic high-temperature lubricant to the pad ears, the slots in the caliper bracket, and the guide pins. If you can get to them, remove the rubber boots, clean the guide pins, lubricate them again, and refit the boots.
  7. Apply lubricant to the back of the pads (the side that contacts the caliper piston) and install the anti-squeal shims on the pads. If the old shims are cracked or deformed, replace them with new ones (410800V726).
  8. Install the pads in the caliper bracket and make sure they slide freely in the slots. Lower the caliper back into place and tighten the lower guide pin to 45-50 N·m (33-37 lb-ft).
  9. Repeat the procedure on the other side, install the wheels, and lower the vehicle.
  10. Press the brake pedal firmly several times so the pistons return to their working position and the pads seat against the rotor. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (it should be between MIN and MAX).
  11. Take a test drive at low speed with a series of gentle stops. The squeal should be gone. New pads are fully bedded in after 200-300 km of driving.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do NOT press the brake pedal while the pads are removed, because the piston may pop out of the caliper. Use only synthetic brake lubricant. Ordinary lithium-based or graphite grease thins out when heated and runs off, and the squeal will come back. If the squeal remains after all of these steps, or comes with pedal pulsation or steering wheel shake, have the rotors checked for runout and the caliper pistons inspected at a qualified repair shop.
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