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Autopapyrus · Iveco Stralis 7.8 Cursor 8 F2B (2012)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/iveco/stralis/camshaft-replacement-gen-1-2012/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Iveco Stralis 7.8 Cursor 8 F2B (2012): Camshaft Replacement

The Cursor 8 camshaft is located in the cylinder block (low-mounted cam-in-block design). It is gear-driven from the crankshaft and operates the valves through tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. Replace it when the lobes are worn, the tappets are scored, or there is a loss of power or a knocking noise. The exact procedure and torque values for the F2B are not documented in open service sources, so what follows is the general sequence for this type of engine. Check all tightening values against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-14 hours (for an experienced mechanic with the proper tooling) Steps: 12 Tools: torque wrench, socket set and Torx/E-Torx bits, gear puller, flywheel and camshaft locking tools (OEM timing pins), dial indicator, feeler gauge set, micrometer and bore gauge; containers for draining coolant and oil, cab lifting equipment, clean rags, assembly lubricant

Part

  • 🔩 Cursor 8 (F2B) engine camshaft assembly, head cover gasket set, valve cover gasket, seals, tappet/rocker set if worn, engine oil and coolant in the drained amounts. I am not listing part numbers, to avoid errors: the camshaft differs by version (Euro 3, 4, 5 and power ratings), so select it by the engine number on the block plate

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Shut off the engine and let it cool, then disconnect the battery ground. Tilt the cab and support it with a safety stand. Drain the coolant and the oil.
  2. Remove the parts that block access: air ducts, intercooler hoses, the turbocharger and exhaust manifold (as needed), the fuel lines and fuel rail/high-pressure pump, the engine brake components (if fitted), and the valve cover.
  3. Set the No. 1 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke, and mark the positions of the gears and timing marks. Lock the crankshaft with the flywheel locking tool.
  4. Remove the rocker shafts and pushrods, laying them out strictly in order by cylinder. Then remove the cylinder head if the design requires removing it to get the tappets out (in practice, the head is usually removed to extract the camshaft as well).
  5. Remove the front cover and the crankshaft pulley damper. Mark the position of the camshaft drive gear relative to the idler gears and the crankshaft. Remove the camshaft thrust plate.
  6. Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the block, taking care not to damage the journals and bushings/bearings. Inspect the bearings, measure the journals with a micrometer and the bushings with a bore gauge. Replace worn bearings.
  7. Remove the tappets from the block. If you are replacing the camshaft because of lobe wear, replace the tappets as a set too, otherwise the new lobes will wear out quickly.
  8. Coat the journals and lobes of the new camshaft with assembly lube/oil and install the camshaft, aligning the gear marks. Check the camshaft end play with a feeler gauge and compare it with the manufacturer's specification.
  9. Install the tappets, the cylinder head with a new gasket, the pushrods and the rocker shafts. Tighten the cylinder head strictly in the sequence and stages specified by the manufacturer (this engine uses torque plus angle tightening, and the values must be taken from the service manual, not guessed).
  10. Adjust the valve lash on each cylinder in firing order to the specified values, with the engine cold.
  11. Reassemble the ancillary components in reverse order, replace the seals and gaskets, refill the oil and coolant, and bleed the fuel system.
  12. Start the engine and let it idle without load for 10-15 minutes. Check the oil pressure, look for leaks, and check for fault codes. Avoid heavy loads for the first 1,000 km. Recheck the valve lash after the break-in period.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a complex job that requires precise valve timing and OEM tooling. A mistake with the timing marks causes the valves to hit the pistons, which leads to expensive engine damage. If you have no experience with diesel engine overhauls, leave the job to a specialist shop. Do not fit a camshaft of a different specification (for example, from a different emissions class) without considering the ECU calibration and timing, as this affects power and emissions. The cab is heavy, so work only with a serviceable safety stand.