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Autopapyrus · Iveco Stralis Hi-Way Cursor 10 10.3 (2018)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/iveco/stralis/camshaft-replacement-hi-way-2018/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Iveco Stralis Hi-Way Cursor 10 10.3 (2018): Camshaft Replacement

On the Cursor 10, the camshaft is located in the block and is driven by a gear train at the flywheel end. There is no timing belt or chain. The valves and, on some versions, the unit injectors or fuel pump are driven by the camshaft through tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. This job involves the valve train and the fuel system, so it requires care and strict adherence to timing.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 1-2 working days (including preparation and break-in) Steps: 15 Tools: torque wrench, socket set and ratchet, factory flywheel and crankshaft TDC locking tools, dial indicator, puller or drift for the gear, assembly grease (for camshaft lobe break-in), marker, containers for oil and coolant, clean trays for laying out parts in order, cab support or hoist for the cab

Part

  • 🔩 Cursor 10 camshaft assembly, upper engine gasket and seal kit (cylinder head cover gasket, injector and rocker seals as needed), thrust flange and gear retaining bolts, engine oil and filter, coolant. I am not listing specific OE part numbers so as not to give you a wrong one: the camshaft is selected by the engine number on the block data plate

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Before starting, park the vehicle on level ground, apply the parking brake and place wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery (negative terminal). Drain the oil and coolant if you plan to remove the cylinder head cover and the radiator or fan.
  2. Tilt the cab. Remove the air ducts, the valve cover guard, the electrical connectors and the injector wiring harnesses. Photograph and label everything you disconnect.
  3. Remove the valve cover and the rocker arm assembly. Before that, loosen the adjusting screws and note the position of the parts. Lay out all tappets and pushrods in strict cylinder order so they go back in their original locations.
  4. If on your engine version the injectors or fuel pump are driven by the camshaft, remove them according to the service manual. Plug the open fuel passages and injector bores to keep dirt out. The pressure in the Common Rail system must be fully relieved before disassembly.
  5. Set the No. 1 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Lock the crankshaft with the factory locking tool and check that the marks on the timing gears line up. Before full disassembly, make sure the marks are legible, and add your own if needed.
  6. Remove the camshaft gear cover and the camshaft gear. Check the teeth and the backlash in the mesh; gear wear is usually easy to see. Use only a puller or drift, with no hammering.
  7. Remove the tappets (marking their positions), then carefully pull the camshaft out of the block. Rotate the camshaft as you withdraw it and do not let the journals scrape the bushings. Remove the end-play retainer (thrust flange) before pulling the camshaft out.
  8. Inspect the journals, lobes and the bushings in the block. Check camshaft runout with a dial indicator and the end play at the thrust flange. Take tolerances from the manufacturer's service manual. If the bushings are worn, a new camshaft alone will not fix the problem. They will need to be replaced with press-fitting, which is best left to a machine shop.
  9. Be sure to replace the tappets if they show pitting or wear on the working surface. Do not install a new camshaft on worn tappets, or the lobes will quickly be destroyed.
  10. Coat the journals and lobes of the new camshaft with assembly paste or a special break-in lubricant. Carefully insert the camshaft without touching the bushings, and install the thrust flange with new bolts. Tighten to the torque specified by the manufacturer.
  11. Install the gear on the camshaft, aligning the marks with the crankshaft gear and the idler gear. Tighten the fastener with a torque wrench while holding the camshaft against rotation, then check the backlash and the marks. Turn the crankshaft by hand through two full revolutions and check again that the marks line up at TDC.
  12. Install the tappets, pushrods, rocker arms and the injectors or pump in reverse order. Adjust the valve lash and (if equipped) the injector preload travel according to the specification for your engine version. Tighten everything in the prescribed sequence and in several stages.
  13. Reinstall the gear cover and the valve cover with new gaskets. Fill with fresh oil, replace the filter, top up the coolant and bleed the air from the system. Prime the fuel system with the hand priming pump.
  14. Start the engine and let it run without load for 15-20 minutes, smoothly varying the speed between 1500 and 2500 rpm. This is the main break-in of the new camshaft, so do not let it idle for long periods at low rpm. Check for leaks and for fault warnings on the dash.
  15. After a few hundred kilometers, check the valve lash, the fastener torque and the oil level. Do the first oil change after this job earlier than the usual interval, since break-in debris ends up in the oil pan.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The exact torque values, clearances and sequences for this Cursor 10 version (Euro 6) are not documented in detail in publicly available materials, so only the general procedure is given here. Take the values from the manufacturer's service manual. This is a difficult job: an error in valve timing or adjustment can cause the valves to hit the pistons and lead to costly repairs. If you have no experience disassembling heavy-duty diesels and do not have the right tools, leave it to a specialized truck repair shop. Camshaft wear is usually a secondary problem: first find the root cause (oil quality, low oil pressure, overheating, worn tappets), or the new camshaft will fail again.