Autopapyrus · Lada Priora (Gen 1)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/priora/brake-hydraulic-system-bleeding/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/priora/brake-hydraulic-system-bleeding/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Lada Priora (Gen 1): Brake Hydraulic System Bleeding
Bleeding is needed when replacing the fluid (recommended interval: every 3 years or about 45,000 km), after repairs to the hydraulic system, and when the pedal feels spongy because of air in the system. The brake circuits are split diagonally, so you must bleed the wheels in a strict sequence and keep watching the fluid level in the reservoir the whole time.
Parts
2- 🔩 DOT-4 brake fluid (about 1 L (1.06 qt); a full fluid change uses 0.5-0.8 L (0.53-0.85 qt)). Glycol-based fluids of different classes (DOT-4 and DOT-5.1) can be mixed
- 🔩 silicone-based DOT-5 cannot
Step by step
12 steps- Preparation. Park the car on level ground, turn off the engine, put the car in first gear and apply the parking brake. Open the hood and wipe the master cylinder reservoir cap so dirt does not get inside.
- Remove the reservoir cap. Use a syringe or bulb to draw the old fluid out of the reservoir (do not pump it down to the bottom, to avoid pulling air into the master cylinder) and top up with fresh fluid to the MAX mark.
- If needed, lift the wheels off the ground and remove them. Clean the bleeder screws on the calipers and wheel cylinders and remove the protective caps.
- Cars without ABS: with the rear wheels raised, use a screwdriver to hold the rear brake pressure regulator piston in the pressed position. To do this, insert it between the regulator lever and the leaf spring. Without this, the regulator will shut off fluid flow to the rear wheels and bleeding will be incomplete. Remove the screwdriver when you are done.
- Bleeding order (this order is mandatory): right rear wheel, left front, left rear, right front.
- Place the hose on the bleeder screw of the first wheel and put the other end into a clear container with a small amount of brake fluid (the end of the hose must stay submerged in the fluid so that air is not drawn back in).
- The helper presses the pedal smoothly several times and holds it pressed to the floor. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn, and the fluid with the old air bubbles flows into the hose. When the flow stops and the pedal reaches the floor, close the bleeder screw, and only then have the helper release the pedal. Never release the pedal while the bleeder screw is open, or air will be drawn into the system.
- Repeat the cycle until clean, fresh fluid (noticeably lighter than the old fluid) flows from the hose with no air bubbles. On every cycle, check the reservoir level and top it up so it never drops below MIN.
- Tighten the bleeder screw carefully, without excessive force (the M8 thread strips easily; see the manufacturer's specifications for the torque value), install the cap and wipe the screw clean. Move on to the next wheel in the sequence.
- Finishing up. Bring the reservoir level to the MAX mark and close the cap. With the engine off, press the pedal several times: it should feel firm, and it should not sink to the floor or feel springy. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding.
- Install the wheels, tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern and lower the car. Check for leaks at the bleeder screws, hoses and calipers. Before driving on the road, test the brakes with a short, low-speed run in a safe area.
- If the car has ABS and the pedal stays soft after normal bleeding, air may have entered the hydraulic unit. It can be fully removed at a repair shop with diagnostic equipment that activates the hydraulic unit pump.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Brake fluid damages paint and plastic and can harm wiring: wash it off immediately and wipe it up with a clean rag. Do not let the reservoir run empty during bleeding, or air will enter the system and you will have to start over. The brakes are a safety system, so if you lack experience or the pedal does not firm up after bleeding, take the car to a repair shop. Take used fluid to a recycling facility and do not pour it down the drain.
How it works · 3D
How Car Brakes Work
How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model.
Open in 3D →