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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi Outlander II (CW)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/outlander/front-wheel-bearing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi Outlander II (CW): Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

The front wheel bearing on the Outlander II typically fails every 100-180 thousand km (62,000-112,000 miles). Symptoms are a humming noise above 60 km/h (37 mph) and vertical play in the wheel. Replacement requires removing the steering knuckle and pressing in a new bearing. It is a medium-difficulty job. It can be done without specialty equipment, but it takes care.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 3-4 hours Steps: 15 Tools: jack, jack stands, ball joint separator, tie rod end separator, torque wrench, 17/19/22/32 mm wrenches and sockets, bearing press (55-91 mm drivers) or bearing puller, hammer, chisel, pry bar, WD-40 or similar penetrating oil

Part

  • 🔩 Front wheel hub bearing — Mitsubishi 3885A040 (interchangeable numbers: MN101347, 3885A017, 3885A050) or aftermarket equivalents NTN-SNR R173.27, FAG 713619790, SKF VKBA7408. ABS sensor (if damaged) — Mitsubishi 4670A576. Hub nut — if the threads or the staked section are damaged
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack, set it on jack stands, and remove the front wheel.
  2. Have a helper press the brake pedal. Loosen and remove the center hub nut (the tightening torque on assembly is 175 N·m (129 lb-ft). To loosen it you will need a 32 mm socket and a breaker bar at least 50 cm (20 in) long).
  3. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, move the caliper aside, and secure it with wire to the spring (do not let it hang from the brake hose). Remove the brake rotor.
  4. Remove the nut from the lower control arm ball joint stud and the nut from the tie rod end. Separate the studs with a separator (do not hit the threaded part with a hammer, to avoid damaging the threads).
  5. Remove the two bolts that secure the steering knuckle to the strut. Pull the knuckle together with the hub off the CV joint (pull it toward you; you may need light taps with a rubber mallet on the end of the hub).
  6. On a workbench or a hard surface: knock the hub out of the steering knuckle with light blows of a rubber mallet on the end of the hub (if needed, use a drift of a suitable diameter).
  7. Remove the bearing retaining ring from the inner side of the knuckle (pliers or a screwdriver). Remove the old bearing: carefully cut notches in the outer race with a chisel (2-3 notches around the circumference), then drive the race outward with light hammer blows through a drift. Alternatively, use a bearing puller or a press with a driver of a suitable diameter (press on the outer race from the inside).
  8. Clean the bearing seat in the knuckle of dirt and rust (wire brush or fine sandpaper). Check that there are no scoring marks or dents.
  9. Press in the new bearing: apply force ONLY to the OUTER race (use a driver of the correct diameter or a press). IMPORTANT: if the bearing has an ABS encoder (a magnetic mark on the race), install it with the mark facing the ABS sensor (usually the magnetic strip should be on the outer side of the knuckle). Press it in until it seats fully, and check that it goes in evenly.
  10. Install the new retaining ring in the groove of the knuckle (make sure the ring is fully seated in the groove).
  11. Press the hub into the bearing: apply force through a driver to the INNER race of the bearing (press through the hub). You can use the old hub nut and tighten it while controlling the force until the hub seats fully. Check that the hub turns freely by hand, with no binding.
  12. Install the steering knuckle with the hub: slide it onto the CV joint, then bolt it to the strut (bolt tightening torque 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft)). Insert the ball joint stud and the tie rod end stud, tighten the nuts (torque 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft)), and install new cotter pins.
  13. Install the brake rotor and bolt on the caliper (guide pin tightening torque 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft)).
  14. Install a new hub nut (or the old one, if the threads and the staked section are intact) and tighten it to 175 N·m (129 lb-ft). Stake the nut collar into the groove on the CV joint shaft (with a chisel or center punch).
  15. Install the wheel and tighten the wheel bolts to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft) (the exact value is on the sticker in the driver's door opening). Lower the vehicle and take a test drive to check that the humming and vibration are gone.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • When pressing in the bearing, do NOT press through the inner race (you will destroy the cage). When pressing in the hub, do NOT press through the outer race. The ABS sensor is easy to damage when hammering nearby. If the sensor housing is cracked, replace the sensor right away (otherwise you will get an ABS fault). If you don't have a press, you can use the old hub nut and a long threaded rod as an improvised press, but this takes experience and care. If you lack experience pressing in bearings, take the car to a repair shop. An incorrect installation will cause the bearing to fail again after 10-20 thousand km (6,000-12,000 miles).