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Autopapyrus · Volkswagen CC (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/cc/front-wheel-bearing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volkswagen CC (1st Generation): Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

On the VW CC (Passat B6/B7 platform), the front bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle and held by a retaining ring. It is not a bolt-on hub assembly. For this reason the knuckle is usually removed from the car and the work is done on a press. Typical signs of wear are a hum that grows with speed and a change in the noise when swerving from side to side. Replace the bearing only on the side where it is worn. If mileage is high, replacing both sides as a pair is acceptable.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 hours per side (including press-fitting on a press) Steps: 15 Tools: Lift or jack with jack stands, lug wrench, sockets and wrenches (including axle nut socket and splined/TORX bits), torque wrench, ball joint and tie rod end puller, hammer and brass drift, hub puller or press, snap ring pliers, wire brush, copper grease, thread locker

Part

  • 🔩 Front wheel bearing complete with ABS sensor or as a repair kit (wheel bearing with retaining ring) and a new axle nut. Kit price varies by brand. I do not give a part number by VIN: the bearing depends on brake size and trim level
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground and secure it with wheel chocks. With the car on the ground, loosen the axle nut after pulling off or removing the decorative cap. Loosen the wheel bolts slightly. Do not remove the axle nut completely while the wheel is on the ground.
  2. Lift the front of the car and remove the wheel. Support the car on jack stands.
  3. Remove the axle nut and the washer. The nut is single-use, so install a new one.
  4. Remove the caliper together with its bracket: remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the knuckle. Hang the caliper on a wire and do not let the hose carry its weight. Remove the brake rotor (it is held by a pin or a single screw).
  5. Disconnect the ABS sensor and pull it out of the knuckle. If the sensor is built into the bearing, unplug the connector and carefully release the wiring from the clips.
  6. Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Remove the nut and knock out or press out the stud with a puller.
  7. Disconnect the lower control arm from the knuckle: the ball joint is secured with a bolt or a nut. Do not strike the control arm, as this will damage the ball joint.
  8. Remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle and slide the knuckle off the strut. Push the axle shaft out of the hub with light taps of a brass drift, without damaging the splines. Do not leave the axle shaft hanging on the inner joint.
  9. Remove the knuckle from the car and secure it in a vise or on a press. Remove the protective cover and the dust shield if it is in the way.
  10. Press the hub out of the bearing using a press or a puller. The inner race of the bearing usually stays on the hub. Remove it with a puller or grind it off. Remove the bearing retaining ring in the knuckle.
  11. Press the bearing out of the knuckle, with the driver contacting only the outer race. Clean the seat of rust and burrs, and lightly coat it with a thin layer of grease.
  12. Press in the new bearing squarely, with the driver contacting only the outer race. Press it in until it stops and install the new retaining ring (it must seat fully in the groove). Press the hub into the bearing, supporting the inner race.
  13. Install the knuckle in reverse order: insert the axle shaft into the hub splines, fit the knuckle onto the strut, and tighten the strut bolts, ball joint fasteners and tie rod end nut. Tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench to specification. Replace self-locking nuts and any bolts designated as single-use with new ones.
  14. Install the rotor, caliper and ABS sensor. Tighten the new axle nut to specification: this model uses a two-stage tightening procedure (torque plus an angle turn). Take the exact values from the manufacturer's specifications for your brake size. Tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft).
  15. Lower the car. Press the brake pedal several times so the pads seat against the rotor. Check that the ABS warning light on the dash is off, and take a test drive of 5-10 km (3-6 miles). A wheel alignment check and adjustment is recommended, because the tie rod end and strut were disconnected.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a safety-critical assembly: handling and wheel reliability depend on the quality of the press-fit. If you do not have a press and experience, leave the job to a repair shop: you can remove the knuckle yourself and take it in for the bearing to be pressed in. Do not strike the bearing or hub directly with a hammer, and do not put excessive angle on the inner axle joints. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the axle nut. Verify the exact torque values for the axle nut and suspension bolts against the specifications for your trim level.